Everything You Need To Know About Olives

Many people don't know that salty, chewy olives are actually a fruit. Their long, fascinating history and wildly varied forms make them a great ingredient in the kitchen and a rich source of information to spout at cocktail parties. But what exactly are they, you're wondering?

"Olives are these little flavor bombs that grow on trees older than your nonna's pasta recipe," says Rocco Carulli, owner and executive chef at R House. "They love the sun, dry soil, and a good breeze — just like we do in Puglia. These trees are tough cookies, living for hundreds of years and still producing fruit each season. We pick 'em green when they're young and punchy, or black when they've mellowed out with age."

The cultivation and use of olives goes back thousands of years in Mediterranean culture, where people enjoyed both their rich oil and their delicious fruits — technically drupes, like cherries or peaches, says Klaus Mueller, culinary director at Atalanta. Despite this categorization, they're best known for their savory, salty flavor, he says, and there's so much you can do with them. Time for a deep dive.

The olive (Olea europaea) can grow as either a shrub or a tree, but on olive farms, they're cultivated over hundreds of years into sturdy, beautiful trees with gray-green leaves and complicated-looking trunks. "Olive trees are renowned for their longevity," says Olivia Roszkowski, chef-instructor of Plant-Based Culinary Arts at the Institute of Culinary Education's New York City campus. "With the right care, they can live for over a hundred years."

Olives are evergreen, growing in rocky, low-moisture soils, and once established, requiring relatively little inputs in order to thrive, says Nicolas Netien, founder of Oleaphen. That's not to say they need no care, of course. "Olive trees are usually propagated through cuttings and can live for hundreds of years, producing fruit annually after about four to seven years," he says. "They benefit from regenerative farming practices that not only improve soil health and biodiversity but can also enhance the phenolic content of the olives, which is especially important for producing high-quality olive oil."

"Olive cultivation dates back over 6,000 years as one of the first agricultural crops," explains Ciriaco Chavez, director of Agriculture & Innovations at Fresh Press Farms. "Originating in the Mediterranean basin, it quickly became an essential crop for ancient civilizations like the Greeks and Romans." The Ancient Egyptians also relied heavily on it. These cultures valued olives for both fruit and oil, and not just for cooking the way modern Westerners use it. Olive was used in cooking, skincare, and rites.

Indeed, it was so valuable that it was sometimes used as currency. "Homer famously called olive oil 'liquid gold,' and archaeological finds confirm its importance across temples, tombs, and trade routes," says Mazen Assaf, founder of The Olive Oil Guy. Chances are good that the Minoans first started cultivating olives, but it was the enterprising Phoenicians, who originated in modern-day Lebanon, who first traded it across the ancient world.

Today, olives come from all over, including Europe, the Middle East, and the United States. However, despite our strong associations with Italy and Greece, the country that produces the most olives is Spain. The award for the oldest tree (or one of the oldest) goes to Bchaaleh, Lebanon, where you'll find a tree estimated to be around 6,000 years old, Assaf says.

Olives exhibit interesting fruit-bearing patterns, typically alternating heavy and light crops in successive years. "Olives form clusters on branches and slowly mature and ripen," says Olivia Roszkowski. The ripening process takes between 6 and 8 months, with the olives gaining more oil content over time (though many experts agree that the quality and healthfulness of the oil goes down as the olives ripen).

"Olives harvested in varying stages of ripeness, from green (unripe) to black (fully ripe), and they're naturally bitter right off the tree," says Kathleen Boureston, recipe developer at Gonna Want Seconds. "That bitterness is why olives are always cured or processed before eating." Regardless of what happens after picking, says Robert Smith, private chef at Culinary Collective Atl, the picking timing affects flavor and oil content. Whether olives are picked by hand or harvester also impacts their quality, because olives may bruise with the latter approach.

A cursory glance at a grocery store shelf will reveal one very basic fact: olives come in a few basic colors. So, what's the difference between black and green olives? How about the purple or bright green options? "The color isn't about the variety, it's about timing," Rocco Carulli says. "Green olives are like teenagers — sharp, firm, and a little wild. Black olives are the wise elders — softer, smoother, and full of deep, mellow flavors."

This is directly tied to harvesting times. "Green olives are typically harvested before ripening and have a firmer texture with a more bitter taste," Robert Smith says. "Black olives are fully ripened and tend to be softer and less bitter, bringing a richer flavor to dishes." Green olives are also more bitter, being higher in bittering compounds and polyphenols such as oleuropein, Nicolas Netien says.

Additional common colors include purple, which is a result of a different olive type than black olives (typically Kalamata), or reddish-brown, which reflects a semi-ripe olive. Color may also be a result of different curing methods. Some brands darken their olives chemically, using iron salts. This is not a traditional method and may affect the flavor and healthfulness of olives, so it's best avoided.

There are a few components to olive flavor: when they were picked and how they were treated afterward. Believe it or not, fresh olives are inedible. This might be surprising, given most fruit is best when picked right off the tree, but not so for olives. In fact, olives are naturally very bitter and unpleasant-tasting, as anyone who's ever popped one right off the tree will know. It's not a mistake you make twice.

As for the flavor profiles of olives cured for sale? "Green olives tend to be firmer with more bitter, grassy, and pungent flavors," Ciriaco Chavez says. "Black olives are fully ripe and generally softer, with notes of ripe tropical fruits and a milder taste." While color and ripeness alone don't determine flavor, he says, ripeness level establishes those baseline flavor profiles. As such, olives from different brands and places, and of differing quality levels, will often taste alike depending on color.

As discussed, some olives are treated chemically or with high heat, which will change their flavor considerably. That's why canned black or green olives are softer, sweeter, and less pungent than the ones you buy at the olive bar.

"Curing is what transforms bitter raw olives into something delicious," Kathleen Boureston says. "There are several methods, including brining (soaking in salt water), dry curing (packing in salt), and lye curing (a quicker chemical process)." The flavor, texture, and saltiness of the olive is a direct result of the approach, she says. "Brined olives tend to be plump and juicy, while dry-cured olives are wrinkled with a more intense, savory flavor." The process isn't quick, Ciriaco Chavez adds. It can take weeks or months to leach out that bitterness and replace it with the tangy, salty, savory, umami taste we know and love so well.

Brining and salt-curing are processes more commonly associated with olives that have continental flavors. As far as the standard, from-the-can, stick-it-on-your-fingers black olive goes, that's a newer industrial method. "The California black ripe process uses lye and oxygen to quickly darken green olives and soften their flavor, creating the mild, uniform black olives often found canned in supermarkets," Chavez says.

"PDO stands for Protected Designation of Origin, a European certification that guarantees an olive oil's authenticity, quality, and regional integrity," explains Sal Russo-Tiesi, CEO at Bono USA. "To earn the PDO seal, the olive oil must be grown, produced, and bottled entirely within the designated area." In addition to being a geographic designation, he adds, brands that wish to gain a PDO seal must prove that their growth practices adhere to the Italian Ministry of Agriculture's strict growth standards.

Specifically, explains Diamantis Pierrakos, producer and co-founder of Laconiko, those standards include specific varieties of olive, maximum pressing temperatures of 28 degrees Celsius (about 82 degrees Fahrenheit), and bottle numbering. "When you see this on olive oil or olives, it means you're getting an authentic product tied to a place with a history of quality," Kathleen Boureston says. "It's like a seal of craftsmanship and terroir." Although that does make the product more expensive, she says, it's worth it for both flavor and consistency.

Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) is a related, but not quite as exacting, label, Russo-Tiesi adds: "At least one stage of the olive oil's production process, or the raw materials, must come from the specific geographical area." Both labels have to do with provenance: where the olive is from and what that means about its history, growth practices, and characteristics.

"There are over a thousand types of olives out there," Rocco Carulli says. "It's like the olive world's version of fashion week, with each cultivar strutting its own flavor and shape." Other sources estimate there may be as many as 2,000 varieties, and all have their uses. Some are meant for popping on a charcuterie board, others for pressing into oil. Aside from your everyday black, green, and Kalamata olives, what else is there?

"Naturally green Castelvetrano olives are milder and less salty, the perfect special addition to anyone's favorite recipe," Sal Russo-Tiesi says. Bonus: These are actually Giada de Laurentiis' fave olive to snack on. Other popular varieties, says Diamantis Pierrakos, include Koroneiki, one of the most common varieties in Greece; Picual, a varietal from Spain; and Coratina olives, one of the most popular olive varieties in Italy. Spanish Manzanilla and Arbequina and French Niçoise are three more popular varieties, says Olivia Roszkowski.

With so many options on the shelf, it's not easy to know where to start, but there are some important tips to keep in mind. "Always look for natural brining, organic or regenerative cultivation, and recent harvest dates," Nicolas Netien says. Although expiration date matters, too, the harvest date will tell you how recently the olives were sourced from the tree. More recency equals a fresher, tastier product. Where possible, look up the supplier and ensure that it's reputable and that its sourcing is transparent. Any time you can't figure out where its olives come from, you should avoid that brand and its products.

And, Olivia Roszkowski adds, "Look where the olives originated from to ensure a high-quality product. Both jarred and bulk olive varieties are good options." You should also look for vibrancy, no matter the pigmentation. Olives that look old, dull, wilted, or gross are to be avoided. Another important tip, Robert Smith says, is to look for olives packed in brine or oil. Some come in vinegar, which will keep them sound, but doesn't add to the flavor. Indeed, it detracts from it.

Olive pits are inedible, as anyone who's nearly cracked a tooth on one will tell you. (Raises hand.) As a cook, you can deal with this in one of a few ways: use them whole, pit them yourself, or buy them pitted. "Pitted olives are convenient for cooking and snacking, while whole olives retain more flavor, but you must contend with the hard pit," Ciriaco Chavez says. Pitted olives are convenient for salads and tapenades, Robert Smith says, while unpitted olives maintain higher levels of moisture and flavor. "For recipes where olives are a focal ingredient, consider using unpitted for added depth," he advises.

Generally, if you're serving olives for snacking on, such as on a charcuterie board, it's better to serve unpitted versions. They're tastier, toothier, and more enjoyable, and some people like sucking on the pit. (Raises hand again.) Just make sure to put out a little bowl for the fun rebate that comes at the end.

Olives are super versatile, and there's not a chef alive who won't give you a thousand ideas for how to use them. Air fry them for a crunchy appetizer, serve them with a cheese platter, toss them into salads, or dress pasta with them. You can also pile them on flatbreads or whiz them into tapenade, mix them into grain bowls, or bake them right into focaccia or country bread. "They love hanging out with cheese, citrus, and herbs — basically your kitchen's social butterflies," Rocco Carulli says. Feeling extra creative? Ditch pre-stuffed versions and stuff olives for drinks or snacks yourself. Carulli loves them with garlic, cheese, or almonds.

Not enough ideas? Top meat and fish with them, put them in a stew, make a Greek salad, arrange them on a mezze platter, or cook them in shakshuka with tomato sauce and eggs. They work well atop pizzas or blended into dressings for added texture and richness. You can also warm them up with chili flakes, citrus zest, and garlic, or use leftover olive brine for drinks, marinades, or even deviled eggs. "And let's not forget some nice bar options like a dry martini, Bloody Mary, and another vermouth or gin-based drink," Klaus Mueller says.

When many folks think of olives, they immediately think of olive oil as well. Although we use it without much thought to its history or provenance, olive is rich in both. "Olive oil is produced by crushing fresh olives into a paste and then pressing or centrifuging the paste to release the oil," Ciriaco Chavez explains. It is then filtered and bottled. "Like any fruit, olives are best when they are just picked from the tree and should be harvested and pressed within eight hours to minimize oxidation and preserve freshness," Chavez adds. Extra-virgin olive oil, or EVOO, is a rarified version of olive oil, in which the fruit is cold-pressed without chemicals or heat. Only the first run of olive oil earns the EVOO title — hence "virgin."

Does this really matter, you wonder? In a word, yes. "It's the only fresh fruit juice that contains powerful, naturally occurring antioxidants and polyphenols — compounds linked to both exceptional flavor and real health benefits," Mazen Assaf says. That first pressing has to meet strict standards for quality, flavor, and freshness. It is the purest and least processed form of olive oil you can get. Although you can technically make olives from different stages of ripeness, the best oil is made from green olives.

A note on selecting olive oil: Think "Go Dark or Go Home," Diamantis Pierrakos says. "Select bottles that are opaque and made of either dark glass or metal," he advises. "Clear glass or plastic bottles allow light to penetrate, which can degrade the oil's quality."

Never leave olives naked in their container. "Olives love to swim in their brine," Rocco Carulli says. "Don't drain their pool!" Instead, he advises, you should keep them chilled in a sealed container once you've cracked them open. If you poured the brine down the drain, no problem, just mix up some salt water and pop the olives into it. "Whatever you do, don't leave them hanging out on the counter. They'll dry out or go funky faster than you can say 'mangia.'" And, he adds, always use clean utensils: "Nobody likes a dirty dipper."

Before you open the can or jar, Klaus Mueller says, make sure to keep it in a cool, dry, dark place, such as a cupboard or pantry. Check the expiration date and make sure to use it on time. Same goes for olive oil. Once you've opened oil, make sure to keep it safe from light, heat, and oxygen, all of which can degrade its flavor and potency, Nicolas Netien says. Where possible, use your oil within 12 to 18 months of its harvest date. With both oil and olives, Robert Smith says, make sure to check for any signs of spoilage, such as off smells or discoloration.

The health benefits of olive oil is a subject around which entire books could be — and are — written. "Olives and extra virgin olive oil are rich in monounsaturated fats, which support heart health," Sal Russo-Tiesi says. "Both also provide antioxidants like vitamin E and polyphenols — powerful plant compounds that help reduce inflammation and protect cells."

Nicolas Netien agrees: "Olives and olive oil are foundational to the Mediterranean diet, which is one of the most studied dietary patterns in medical literature." In more than 2,000 peer-reviewed studies, phenolic compounds such as oleocanthal, oleacein, and hydroxytyrosol have proven their worth in a number of arenas, reducing inflammation, improving cardiovascular and metabolic health, and improving your gut microbiome, he says. The compounds in olives even have applications for Alzheimer's disease.

As if that's not enough, Diamantis Pierrakos adds that the compounds in olives also can help to lower cholesterol, slow aging, improve artery health, control blood sugar, and protect blood lipids from oxidative damage. They may also reduce the symptoms of Type 2 diabetes, lower blood pressure, and protect brain proteins involved in memory, learning, and thinking.

With extra-virgin olive oil and specialty high-phenolic olive oil, made from olives harvested quite young, you may see even higher benefits, the experts say. However, olives alone offer these perks, so it's worth incorporating them into your diet by researching the Mediterranean diet and incorporating more such recipes into your diet, as well as switching out other fats for olive oil.