Called The 'Foie Gras Of The Sea,' This Seafood Is A Must-Order On Any Sushi Menu

Even among sushi lovers who know their unagi (freshwater eel) from their otoro (lower tuna belly), there's one special cut of seafood that usually flies under the radar at the sushi bar: monkfish liver. Monkfish are odd-looking creatures with wide mouths and sharp little teeth, making them seem like they were reeled in from the Mariana Trench. (There's a bit of truth in that — they live deep in the Northwest Atlantic Ocean and can survive depths of around 3,000 feet.) Their livers, called ankimo in Japanese, are considered a delicacy, often found at upscale restaurants and enjoyed as an appetizer. Because of the organ's creamy, melt-in-your-mouth consistency and buttery, earthy undertones, it's become known as the 'foie gras of the sea,' a reference to the controversial French delicacy made from goose or duck liver. It's also prized for its mild oceanic sweetness.

At sushi restaurants, monkfish liver is typically prepared in a couple of different ways. You might find it as sashimi or classic nigiri sushi plunked atop rice and fastened with seaweed, or simply steamed and sliced into pucks traditionally garnished with scallions and momiji oroshi, a condiment of grated daikon radish and spicy red peppers. Ponzu sauce, which is similar to soy sauce but more citrus-forward, might also make an appearance — its lightness and gentle sourness are a welcome foil to the liver's richness. You can also find monkfish liver at eateries serving traditional Japanese cuisine or those with a tasting menu like kaiseki.

The 'foie gras of the sea' comes from the 'poor man's lobster'

There's an irony in comparing monkfish liver to a luxe foodstuff like foie gras, considering that monkfish has long been called 'poor man's lobster' due to its similarity to the pricey crustacean in appearance, texture, and taste. However, while it's not as expensive as actual foie gras, monkfish liver is far from cheap. Because it's a specialty food, just a few slices could cost anywhere from $15 to $22 at a Japanese restaurant depending on your location. Still, many sushi aficionados would agree that it's an underrated fish you should try.

Although some restaurants serve monkfish liver year-round, it's traditionally a seasonal winter ingredient in Japan, as this is when the organ is said to be at its peak. (Some livers can reach upwards of 6 inches to a foot in length and weigh anywhere from 1 to more than 3 pounds.) During the colder months, you'll also find ankimo enriching the broth of a monkfish hotpot dish called anko nabe.

While it has deep culinary roots in Japan, fans of monkfish liver span the globe. Outside of sushi and Japanese cooking, the culinary delicacy is also part of French, Spanish, and Portuguese cuisines, primarily enjoyed canned or as pâté. But if you've never ordered it at a sushi restaurant before, you should definitely give it a try.

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