Review: Taco Bell's New California Crunchwrap Lacks The Golden Touch

California is the birthplace of some of the most iconic eats ever to grace the plate, from the ubiquitous cheeseburger and Brown Derby-born cobb salad to sweet treats like rocky road ice cream and the fortune cookie. Then there are the dishes that boast of their Golden State origin in name such as the California roll, the crab and avocado maki that is a staple in U.S. sushi bars. Less heralded, but equally craveable, is the California burrito. Created in San Diego (though its specific origins remain murky), the portable feast is packed with a laundry list of ingredients including carne asada, guacamole, and most notably, the genius addition of crispy fries. 

While the burrito hasn't gotten much attention beyond SoCal, Taco Bell is hoping to change that ... with a slight tweak. Beginning November 20 as part of its Fan Style Menu, the Orange County-based chain will be bringing the California Crunchwrap to the masses to join the popular breakfast California Crunchwrap. But does this version best the burrito? I got a sneak taste at the Taco Bell Friendsgiving gathering at the company's headquarters in Irvine — here's what to expect. 

Recommendations are based on firsthand impressions of promotional materials and products provided by the manufacturer.

What is the California Crunchwrap?

When Taco Bell put the word out that it was seeking fan input for new menu items, it's no surprise that the response was impressive. More than 40,000 of the chain's faithful pitched personalized dishes based on the multitude of Taco Bell's customizable ingredient options. The California Crunchwrap is among three items that made the Fan Style Menu cut, joining the Burrito Bliss (a gussied up Cheesy Bean and Rice Burrito) and the Cantina Craze (an upgraded version of the Cantina Chicken Crispy Taco).

As for the California Crunchwrap, it comes courtesy of a fan named Brock, who, it should be noted, happens to reside in Michigan. His elevated take on the Crunchwrap Supreme substitutes seasoned beef for steak and brings guacamole and seasoned fries into the flour tortilla and crispy tostada shell fold.

While the price is TBA, a standard Crunchwrap Supreme will set you back six bills so expect this spin to be in that range. Availability for the California Crunchwrap will be limited, but since all the ingredients are offered on the Taco Bell menu, you can always pull a Brock and DIY your own version.

How does it taste?

The beauty of the California burrito is it offers ample real estate in that oversized tortilla to allow all the components to play a specific role and shine. The California Crunchwrap, however, packs everything in like a New York City shoebox and the results are far from harmonious.

My biggest issue: too much crunch! Loaded into a California burrito, the fries really stood out texturally. (For the record, I am staunchly anti-lettuce when it comes to burrito fillings.) Alas, when you already have the tostada and iceberg amping the crispy factor, the addition of those tater slivers feels like a hat on a hat on a hat. Even with the inclusion of nacho cheese and sour cream, the California Crunchwrap is in need of a creamy plunge — a dip in Taco Bell's spicy Frank's RedHot Diablo Sauce certainly helped matters. 

Unfortunately, the steak also gets lost in the shuffle. While the aggressively seasoned ground beef shines in a Crunchwrap Supreme, the steak lacks that flavor punch to compete in a crowded field.

Is it worth it?

As we've learned from "Spinal Tap II: The End" and "How I Met Your Father," sometimes you should just let the OG be, and this is one of those cases –- my sincerest apologies to Brock. The Crunchwrap Supreme is tried and true because all those components work together, while its Cali counterpart is perhaps too much of a good thing.

Though the Crunchwrap may not be the best vehicle for a seasoned french fry addition, you can always customize a steak burrito for that classic San Diego vibe (don't forget to add the guacamole). Better yet, plan a trip to SoCal and try the real deal for yourself. 

If you're in a crunchy mood but prefer not to go off menu, consider the tasty Frank's RedHot Diablo Crispy Chicken Burrito or it's Avocado Ranch counterpart to satisfy your craving. 

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