The Historic Dessert Shop That Helped Keep Anthony Bourdain Cool In New Orleans

When you think of sweet treats in New Orleans, the first thing that probably comes to mind is the city's iconic beignets. But if you're a close watcher of Anthony Bourdain's various travel series, you'll know another local hot — or more accurately, cold — spot: Hansen's Sno-Bliz. It's arguably the premier place to get a classic New Orleans sno-ball, a dessert treat that's functionally similar to a snow cone (shaved ice with flavored syrup), although some argue that the New Orleans version features softer, more finely shaved ice that soaks up the syrup more effectively.

Bourdain visited the now 86-year-old institution for a New Orleans episode during the second season of his show "A Cook's Tour," which aired in 2003. His episode deliberately skips out on the famed-but-touristy French Quarter (home to many of the city's famed restaurants) in favor of smaller local spots. A sweaty Bourdain visits Hansen's as a way to cool down from the city's notorious heat. He watches as Hansen's staff feed a block of ice into an antique ice-shaving machine that sputters out fluffy mounds of shaved ice. Bourdain opts for a pink lemonade flavor, with house-made lemonade syrup topped off with sweetened condensed milk. Bourdain marvels at the sno-ball's uniqueness, describing it as different from icy desserts like sorbet, granita, ice cream, or Italian ice. "There's something else going on here," he says. He's also a fan of the warm hospitality from founders Mary and Ernest Hansen. They've since passed away, but the store remains firmly within the family.

Hansen's is hardly the only place to get a sno-ball in New Orleans, but it's the originator of this local specialty — arguably the best in town). Ernest Hansen devised the store's original electric ice shaving machine, apparently after seeing a local ice vendor shaving ice by hand in the city's oppressive heat and being unpleasantly surprised by the vendor's dirty hands all over the ice. 

Hansen created the machine in 1934, before opening a stand in 1936 selling sno-balls with syrups made by his wife, Mary. Hansen's Sno-Bliz then became a brick-and-mortar establishment in 1939. Among the original flavors was strawberry with condensed milk, along with other fruit options like blueberry and grape. To say Hansen's menu has since evolved would be an understatement: It now has around 50 flavors, plus a few sugar-free options and a range of toppings from crushed fruit to marshmallow fluff. Flavors include satsuma mandarin, cream of nectar, Earl Grey, ginger cayenne, and honey lavender. With that kind of creativity, the store won a James Beard American Classic Award in 2014.

And it's a cheap dessert, too: Basic sno-ball cups go for about $2 to $6 depending on the size, although you'll pay extra for the fancier flavors. You may have to wait in line unless you arrive early, and the store typically closes each year for winter.