'Poor Man's Asparagus': The Old-School Veggie Eaten Before Spinach Was Popular

Long before spinach became the cool kid on the block, there was another leafy green that was quite popular back in the day, though it isn't really a vegetable many people eat anymore, let alone are aware of. And that is spinach's close cousin, Good King Henry, which is also referred to as wild spinach or poor man's asparagus. The latter title is because it was affordable and the edible shoots resemble asparagus and taste like it when cooked. The leaves, however, have an earthy bitterness that is reminiscent of spinach. It was considered to be a reliable and accessible source of nutrition, especially in the British Isles, where it was harvested for centuries, given that it was quite easy to grow and care for.

Good King Henry, whose scientific name is Blitum bonus-henricus, is native to the southern and central regions of Europe, where it was savored in a number of ways. Its name might have you doing a double-take if you spot it in the produce section of the grocery store. The name is reportedly derived from the German term "Guter Heinrich," which translates to "Good Henry," in order to tell it apart from the poisonous Mercurialis perennis, known as "Böser Heinrich," or "Bad Henry." With the rise of other greens like spinach, Good King Henry faded away into culinary history, much like the old-school ketchup from the 1800s.

If you live in Europe, chances are you can buy and grow your own perennial crop of Good King Henry. In the States, it can grow in USDA Zones 4 through 8, where the coldest temperatures range between 15 degrees Fahrenheit and -25 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. This versatile crop can be prepared in a number of delicious ways, given that most of the plant is edible. The spinach-like leaves can be eaten raw, tossed in a salad, or cooked in the same ways we cook spinach so it stays vibrant and green. Just like adding toasted nuts brings a delightful crunch to sautéed spinach, you can prepare Good King Henry with other ingredients and serve it as a side dish, on a sandwich or in a wrap, or incorporate it into a stir-fry. You could also make a wild spinach and artichoke dip by replacing the conventional spinach with its older cousin.

For the edible shoots, given the similarities to asparagus, you can play around with recipes that traditionally call for asparagus. Roast or sauté and then incorporate the shoots into a dish like lemon and asparagus risotto. Serve Good King Henry with a flavorful dressing or keep it simple with a drizzle of olive oil and a dash of your preferred seasonings. Some eateries in Europe serve Good King Henry-stuffed dumplings or use the greens to fill savory tarts. Get creative and contribute to the revival of this once-coveted green.