Before Tomato Ketchup, It Was Made With This (But We Bet You'll Never Guess What)
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Ketchup, in all its bright red glory, is almost always equated with tomatoes. However, it's not uncommon to come across other iterations of ketchup from cuisines from around the world. Take the Philippines, for example; their traditional ketchup recipe calls for a completely different fruit from tomatoes and offers a slightly sweeter tasting profile. That said, during its early days, ketchup in the West was made with a whole different key ingredient that most of us would find to be unexpected in today's culinary day and age. It was neither a fruit nor a vegetable. Rather, it was an umami-packed fungus: mushrooms. Quite like how most have forgotten about Koogle, the sugary peanut butter spread that was popular in the '70s, mushroom ketchup is one of those blasts from the culinary past.
In fact, it is believed to have been one of the first types of ketchup made in Britain during the 18th century, and was particularly savored by the Victorians. This condiment was made from fresh or dried mushrooms that were salted and seasoned to draw out all those concentrated flavors. The extracted juices were combined with aromatics and vinegar, then simmered and reduced before being strained and served, usually on a type of protein. When you think about it, it's no surprise that the versatile mushroom, known for being among the best umami-rich ingredients, has also found its way to shine in ketchup.
The ketchup evolution
Like many other culinary mainstays, ketchup underwent a fascinating evolution before becoming a staple condiment in almost every American household. Its first iteration is believed to have originated in ancient China, with texts dating back as far as 300 B.C. that document fermented sauces, such as fish sauce, referred to as "ge-thcup" or "koe-cheup," depending on the regional dialect. These Asian-style fish sauces possibly piqued the interest and taste buds of British and Dutch traders, who then brought the concept back to Europe, where its evolution continued. These early versions of ketchup were spice-forward, salty to taste, and more watery in consistency compared to the rather thick texture of modern-day ketchups. Some of these ketchups were made with ingredients we wouldn't have even thought of, like oysters, mussels, walnuts, lemons, celery, and much more. Mushroom ketchup was one among these many creations and is also reportedly the favorite of famed author Jane Austen.
It wasn't until the early 1800s that tomatoes entered the scene. In 1812, Philadelphia horticulturist James Mease provided the first published recipe for tomato ketchup. This recipe lacked vinegar and, as a result, had a shorter shelf life. Eventually, vinegar and sugar were added, creating the familiar balance of sweet and tang in a condiment whose history is a testament to the curiosity, necessity, and pure joy that drives culinary innovation. Now we see several ingenious ketchup recipes that center on different types of produce, including a range of fruits. Consider playing around with some of these to bring variety to your next barbecue. However, if you're curious to experience a taste of history and give mushroom ketchup a try, you can find Geo Watkins mushroom ketchup on Amazon.