My Favorite NYC Sushi Spot That Tastes Expensive (Without Breaking The Bank)

There is no such thing as truly cheap, great sushi in New York City. Even the last time I picked up tuna for sashimi from the Japanese market Sunrise Mart, obviously absent any restaurant makeup, it still wasn't what anyone would consider a budget buy. This is, after all, in a town where sub-$100 omakase — the multicourse, chef's choice fish feast — is bumblingly described (with plenty of throat-clearing caveats) as somewhat affordable. And, relatively speaking, it is. So the first time I saw what they could do at Sushi 35 West for a tab in the lower double-digits, I was delighted.

The clear tell that 35 West's chefs were tremendously talented was not the first thing I noticed about the place. That was the Scorsese-light entrance on — you guessed it — 35th Street, followed by a now niche-famous, narrow staircase up to the place, and a couple of chintzy patio tables for what was, in those early, post-pandemic days, still referred to as "indoor dining." But once my order came up, a plastic tray of beautiful nigiri, the obvious quality betrayed the comically unvarnished space.

Unlike its price point peers, Sushi 35 West's fish had clearly been sliced on spec, with evidence of proper knifework, and the kiss of a flame's light torch crowning some pieces. The sea urchin, too, was as good as some I'd had elsewhere for unspeakable sums, and the bursting salmon roe gems were properly marinated to amplify their salinity just enough. All for a total of around $25.

I have been a professional eater and drinker for a number of years (and a New Yorker for 20 years), so I am no more surprised by super expensive, PR-backed restaurant failures than I am by quiet triumphs. And Sushi 35 West is still one of those subtle victories, albeit one that has since gone on to a healthy share of social media attention, as well as some of those more dubious purported restaurant reviews that we sometimes warn you about. And, back when it was new, more or less unheard of, and as delicious as it was exciting, I couldn't help but rush back to the service counter to find out why.

It turned out that Sushi 35 West's owners had simply come up in some of those highly regarded places of raw seafood worship where people clamored at the chance to pay considerably more cash for their considerable skill. The proprietors were also particularly knowledgeable about product sourcing, which is another critical component for even a chance at excellence. So, unlike countless other anonymous sushi spots, Sushi 35 West was, and remains, best in class. Who knew: being great at your job makes you great at your job.

I've been back to Sushi 35 West plenty of times since that first, jubilant day, and it's still terrific. The rich, buttery uni and effervescent ikura are compulsory and, I believe, the most emblematic of the kitchen's luxe DNA. The toro, king salmon, and striped jack are also favorites, or you can leave it up to chance with sets that start at a scant $22 at lunch and $37 at dinner.