The Los Angeles Steakhouse Anthony Bourdain Always Gave High Praise To
If you know where to look, it starts to seem like the late culinary celebrity and public curmudgeon Anthony Bourdain liked as many things as he disdained. While Bourdain famously hated brunch, he loved a bloody Mary. He was also fond of fancy sushi, fairly basic burgers, and romance-worthy omelettes, which, you know, who isn't? The TV host and "Kitchen Confidential" writer also touted tons of restaurants near and far, including Chi Spacca in Los Angeles, California.
Bourdain cited the spot in a smattering of interviews over the years, including to New York magazine's Grub Street vertical. Bourdain recalled "an enormous, meat-centric dinner" to the outlet in 2016, detailing a carnivorous kaleidoscope of salumi, a particularly memorable beef and marrow pie, and a Tuscan T-bone, among a few plant and seafood plates. The steak was also imbued with a critical component that, existential arguments aside, you really can't buy: time. "Already a beautifully sourced and aged thing of beauty, it makes all the difference in the world when you rest it for an appropriate period before slicing it," Bourdain told Grub Street. "Perfection."
Seeking perfection at Chi Spacca today
Unlike a lot of its esteemed peers, even week-of reservations are easy to come by, so simply getting a table at Chi Spacca is a snap. Replicating Bourdain's order is also a breeze, which comes as a bit of a surprise so many years later. All that convenience, of course, will cost you.
An abundant salumi plate (recommended for two to four people) is presently $40, the beef and bone marrow pie is $68, and a couple of steaks that approximate the one Bourdain referenced hover from around $200-$300, but, you know, they're big. Like the most clever of similarly special-occasion priced locales, there are also some cheaper ways to experience Chi Spacca's vibes, if not its spendiest items. A pig's head dinner (an "ode to pork", the menu says) is $125 per person, before drinks, tax, and tip. A $20 smashburger is also served exclusively at Chi Spacca's cozy chef's counter on Monday and Tuesday nights for more of a first date kind of mood than an anniversary dinner, or even a love letter to swine.