15 Old-School Restaurants Anthony Bourdain Adored
Anthony Bourdain may be best remembered as a globetrotting chef who was always chasing new dishes, unfamiliar places, and interesting people on his food and travel television shows. He had a knack for finding the best places to eat and uncovering hidden gems both at home and abroad. Yet for all his travels and insatiable curiosity, he never lost his appreciation for the classics. As he said on an episode of "Parts Unknown," "In case you haven't noticed, I'm an old-school guy. I'm sentimental about some things."
We know from Bourdain's writing and television shows that he had an affinity for old-school restaurants with history, character, and authenticity. Many of his favorite places to drink were weathered dive bars, and he loved ducking into smoky taverns, turn-of-the-century delis, and diners with cracked leather booths for a bite to eat. He was also a fan of elegant eateries steeped in history, like classic steakhouses, trattorias, and brasseries. If you also value tradition over the latest trends, these are 15 old-school restaurants that Bourdain adored, all of which are still going strong today.
1. Barney Greengrass in New York City, New York
New York City was Anthony Bourdain's birthplace and home base, with tons of institutions that he loved. On an episode of "A Cook's Tour," he highlighted some of his favorite restaurants, including one that's been around for over 110 years. Bourdain said, "Whenever I want to treat myself to the best breakfast in New York — in fact, the best breakfast in the universe — I go to a place in my neighborhood that found fame for just that. The legendary Barney Greengrass, The Sturgeon King."
Founded by Barney Greengrass in 1908, this historic deli is still run by the same family and is famous for its smoked fish and meats. Bourdain was a huge fan of the sturgeon, which he called "the absolute king of smoked fish." He was also partial to the Nova Scotia salmon scrambled eggs with caramelized onions, a plain toasted bagel, and "regular" coffee with milk and sugar. On his way out, he often grabbed chopped liver to take home.
(212) 724-4707
541 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY 10024
2. Le Dôme Café in Paris, France
French cuisine played a huge role in Anthony Bourdain's life. His family spent many summer vacations in France, and that's where he had some of his most formative food experiences. He learned classic French cooking techniques while studying at the Culinary Institute of New York, and would go on to become the executive chef of Brasserie Les Halles in New York City. He showcased Paris several times on various shows, including an episode of "The Layover," where he hinted that one of his favorite restaurants in Paris was Le Dôme Café.
Since 1898, Le Dôme Café has been serving classic French cuisine from its location in the Montparnasse district in Paris. Over the past 100 years, it's played host to artists and influential figures like Jean-Paul Sartre, Pablo Picasso, and Ernest Hemingway. Bourdain stated that it was an absolute must for anyone visiting Paris. His order on "The Layover" was an impressive seafood tower that featured shrimp, langoustines, whelks, oysters, clams, and periwinkles.
+33 1 43 35 25 81
108 Bd du Montparnasse, 75014 Paris, France
3. Musso & Frank in Los Angeles, California
Anthony Bourdain may have been an East Coaster through and through, but Los Angeles had a pull on him as well. Many of his favorite restaurants in Los Angeles were old-school spots serving up the same classic fare that put them on the map decades ago. It's easy to see why he loved Musso and Frank, a fine dining spot that's been around since 1919 –four years before the Hollywood sign went up.
Not much has changed at Musso and Frank over the decades. Dark wood and leather still abound, the waiters wear jackets and bowties, and the menu still features favorites from the early days like steaks, fettuccine Alfredo, and Chicken à la King. Bourdain told Haute Living that he loved that it was a "perfectly-preserved old-school Hollywood restaurant" where the bartenders knew how to mix a proper drink. Dishes he loved included the iceberg wedge salad, bone-in ribeye steak, creamed spinach, and sautéed mushrooms.
(323) 467-7788
6667 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood, CA 90028
4. Osteria dal 1931 in Rome, Italy
Like many chefs, Anthony Bourdain was enamored with Italy. It wasn't just the food that he loved, though. He was also fascinated by the history, culture, and people. He filmed numerous television shows in Italy, exploring places like Rome, Tuscany, and Sicily. He was a big fan of frequenting smaller spots that might not be recommended by a concierge, but where local people go for traditional dishes. Osteria dal 1931 in Rome ticked all the boxes for him.
Bourdain showcased Osteria dal 1931 on an episode of "Parts Unknown." Established in 1931, the restaurant started as a tavern and later transitioned to serve food as well. The menu has changed several times over the years, but today, it's all about Roman classics like fried zucchini flowers, house-made pastas, and hearty meat dishes. On the show, Bourdain started his meal with a plate of prosciutto and artichoke hearts, followed by a ravioli that he called "completely awesome." To accompany his meal, he had a bottle of Chianti.
+39 06 537 0032
Via di Donna Olimpia, 44, 00152 Roma RM, Italy
5. Antoine's Restaurant in New Orleans, Louisiana
There are plenty of old-school spots to visit in New Orleans, as Bourdain discovered while filming there for "A Cook's Tour," "No Reservations," and "The Layover." Some might argue that the "No Reservations" episode was the most impactful because it aimed to show how resilient the city was after Hurricane Katrina. In the episode, local food critic Tom Fitzmorris took Bourdain to an iconic fine dining spot that Bourdain absolutely loved.
Antoine's Restaurant has served classic Creole cuisine in the French Quarter since 1840, and it's still run by descendants of founder Antoine Alciatore today. The restaurant is the oldest restaurant in New Orleans, and the birthplace of oysters Rockefeller. Bourdain sampled oysters Foch (cornmeal-crusted oysters served with a creamy sherry sauce and foie gras on toast points) and jumbo lump crab meat with pompano fish. "This goes right back to my beginnings, man," said Bourdain. "You've got to love this."
(504) 581-4422
713 St Louis St, New Orleans, LA 70130
6. Big Apple Inn in Jackson, Mississippi
Bourdain never imagined himself going to Mississippi until traveling changed the way he saw the world. After exploring the Mississippi Delta for an episode of "Parts Unknown," it's safe to say that some of the spots he visited ranked among Bourdain's favorite restaurants in the South. In his field notes for the show, he called the state a "uniquely beautiful place," and alluded to a spot where you can get "an irony-free pig's ear sandwich that will make you weep for joy."
The spot Bourdain was referring to was the Big Apple Inn in Jackson, a no-frills diner that's been on Farish Street since 1939. Founder Juan Mora moved to Jackson from Mexico City and started out selling tamales on the street, eventually moving into a proper shop. His great-grandson, Geno Lee, runs the spot today and still sells tamales along with smoked sausage sandwiches and the pig's ear sandwiches that Bourdain loved. The sandwiches are served on soft buns with slaw, mustard, and hot sauce.
(601) 354-9371
509 N Farish St, Jackson, MS 39202
7. Le Continental in Québec City, Canada
Given Anthony Bourdain's passion for French cuisine, it's no surprise that he was a fan of Québec City. The predominantly French-speaking city was founded in 1608, making it one of the oldest cities in North America. Bourdain visited several restaurants there for an episode of "Parts Unknown," one of which struck all the right chords with him. "Le Continental is the kind of place of which I am unreservedly sentimental," he said.
Established in 1956, Le Continental is all about white linen tablecloths, professional servers dressed to the nines, and what Bourdain called "French, continental, ocean liner classics." During his visit, he and his dining companions had Caesar salad and beef tartare prepared tableside, shrimp cocktail, filet mignon in a cognac cream sauce, scampi Newburg, and Dover sole deboned and sauced tableside. Bourdain loved that it was unironically classic with nary a hipster in sight. "Man, I love this place," he said. "I'm so happy. It's very comfortable. There's continuity in this world."
restaurantlecontinental.com/en
(418) 694-9995
26 Rue Saint-Louis, Québec, QC G1R 3Y9, Canada
8. Keens Steakhouse in New York City, New York
Like many native New Yorkers, Anthony Bourdain loved an old-school steakhouse. On an episode of "No Reservations," he said, "If you want the real New York-style steakhouse, it helps to actually do it in New York, and you really can't do any better or more authentic than Keens." He went on to describe the old-school vibes of the place with clay smoking pipes lining the ceilings, political cartoons on the walls, and a menu focused mainly on liquor and meat.
Keens has an illustrious history that dates back to 1885. It was originally a men's-only gathering spot where patrons could check their pipe at the bar so it would be waiting for them when they stopped in for drinks and a steak. Today, it's home to the largest collection of churchwarden pipes in the world, some of which belonged to famous patrons like Babe Ruth, Albert Einstein, and Theodore Roosevelt. The menu features classic steakhouse fare like fresh oysters, Caesar salad, steaks, and Keen's famous mutton chop.
(212) 947-3636
72 W 36th St., New York, NY 10018
9. Brauerei zur Malzmühle in Cologne, Germany
Never one to turn down a really good cold beer, Bourdain found Cologne refreshing. The German city is famous for its Kölsch beer, which is a crisp, top-fermenting beer that's midway between a lager and ale. Bourdain visited Cologne for an episode of "Parts Unknown," and said, "Here, decent beer is a way of life. It's a birthright. You don't talk about it too much. You freakin' drink it." His preferred place to quaff some Kölsch was Brauerei zur Malzmühle.
Founded in 1858, Brauerei zur Malzmühle has been brewing and serving Kölsch since it opened. Even after the brewery was nearly destroyed in WWII bombing raids, it still served beer through the remaining stone door frame. Bourdain loved the democratic and welcoming nature of the bar and the small glasses that kept the beer from getting too warm. He was also a fan of the mettbrötchen (raw minced pork on bread) and absolutely adored the Himmel und Ääd (blood sausage with fried onions, mashed potatoes, and applesauce).
+49 221 92160613
Heumarkt 6, 50667 Köln, Germany
10. Cielito Lindo in Los Angeles, California
Los Angeles is a mecca for Mexican food, and Anthony Bourdain was all about it. In fact, he dedicated an entire episode of "Parts Unknown" to Latinx food and culture in the city. Throughout the episode, he showed just how deeply Mexican cuisine is woven into the fabric of L.A. One of the spots he stopped at was Cielito Lindo, a decades-old, no-frills stand at the edge of Olvera Street.
Not much has changed at Cielito Lindo since Aurora Guerrera began selling her homemade taquitos from the stand in 1934. There are still just a few tables, and the taquitos are made the same way they've always been. They consist of beef machaca rolled in a fresh corn tortilla, deep-fried, and smothered in a sauce made with avocados, guero chiles, tomatillos, garlic, and cilantro. The menu also features burritos, tamales, and chiles rellenos. Bourdain described the food as "the kind of stuff that made Americans fall in love with Mexican food."
(213) 687-4391
E 23 Olvera St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
11. Katz's Delicatessen in New York City, New York
Plenty of people love to roll their eyes at Katz's Delicatessen, calling it too touristy. Bourdain wasn't one of them. To him, it was a real deal, old-school New York institution that earned its status by serving consistently great food. Opened in 1888, Katz's is renowned mostly for its top-notch smoked meats. Bourdain thought Katz's had the best pastrami in New York City, a sentiment that many New Yorkers would agree with.
Katz's puts a lot of love into its pastrami, pickling the meat for three weeks, slow-smoking it for three days, and boiling it for three hours. You can get it by the pound or piled high on your choice of rye or club bread. You can also get your sandwich with mustard or toppings like lettuce and tomatoes, although purists will tell you it doesn't need anything extra. As Bourdain said in a piece he wrote for "Lonely Planet's A Moveable Feast" (via The Guardian), "It's damn good pastrami. Period."
(212) 254-2246
205 E Houston St, New York, NY 10002
12. Sukiyabashi Jiro in Tokyo, Japan
Few food destinations blew Anthony Bourdain's mind quite like Tokyo. He once said that if he could only eat in one city for the rest of his life, Tokyo would be it. He loved all sorts of Japanese dishes, from soba noodles to yakitori, and even convenience store egg salad sandwiches. When it came to sushi, one spot that stood out for him was Sukiyabashi Jiro, a tiny spot hidden away in the basement of an office building.
Sukiyabashi Jiro may look unassuming from the outside, but don't let that fool you. As Bourdain told The Guardian, "It serves some of the finest quality sushi anywhere on the planet." It was founded by chef Jiro Ono in 1965, and his time-honored techniques and ultra-fresh fish creations earned the spot three Michelin stars. Bourdain said, "The rice is always perfect, the seaweed the right consistency and not soggy and the fish at the carefully regulated, preferred temperatures that Jiro works so hard to ensure."
+81 3-3535-3600
Tsukamoto Sogyo Building B1F, 4-2-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan
13. Swan Oyster Depot in San Francisco, California
Swan Oyster Depot is a San Francisco institution that's been continuously operating since 1912. There's no website and no reservations, so everyone has to wait their turn for one of the stools at the counter. Once inside, you'll find a convivial atmosphere and a whole lot of great seafood to choose from. Anthony Bourdain adored the spot and visited it as often as he could. On an episode of "Parts Unknown," he called it "a touchstone in my worldwide wanderings" and "a happy zone."
One of Bourdain's favorite dishes at Swan Oyster Depot was the crab back, a crab shell filled with the innards of the crab and served with sourdough bread to sop up all the fatty goodness. He was also known to tuck into freshly shucked oysters and fresh sea urchin. His drink of choice was often a cold draft beer. If you're planning on visiting, try to get there early because the wait can often be an hour or more at peak times.
instagram.com/swan.oyster.official
(415) 673-1101
1517 Polk St, San Francisco, CA 94109
14. Paul Bocuse in Lyon, France
It's not every day you get to sit down for a meal with one of your culinary idols, but that's exactly what happened when Bourdain visited Paul Bocuse in Lyon for an episode of "Parts Unknown," he was floored, even teary-eyed, to meet the namesake chef, also known as the father of modern French cooking. "I never thought in a million years I would ever eat at his restaurant, much less with him," he told Bloody Elbow. "It was a once in a lifetime thing, a dream come true ... Bocuse was the mountain top for me."
Bourdain, Bocuse, and chef Daniel Boulud enjoyed a decadent meal at Bocuse's restaurant that started with the chef's famous black truffle soup Élysée. Then, the trio moved on to sea bass stuffed with lobster mousse, wrapped in pastry, baked, and served with a tomato bearnaise sauce. They also tried a French stew with beef, veal, and oxtail, as well as roasted hare. Bourdain called it "the meal of my life."
+33 4 72 42 90 90
40 Rue de la Plage, 69660 Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, France
15. Russ & Daughters in New York City, New York
Russ & Daughters is another classic New York City spot that Bourdain admired for its enduring history and fantastic fish. It all started when a Polish immigrant named Joel Russ began selling herring from a pushcart on the Lower East Side in the early 20th century. By 1914, he had saved enough money to open an appetizing shop, a style of shop that's unique to New York and focuses on foods that go with bread and bagels, like smoked fish and spreads.
On an episode of "No Reservations," Bourdain revealed that one of his go-to orders at Russ & Daughters was the herring in cream sauce. "It's all about sweet and sour salty goodness," he said. He also loved a bagel with cream cheese and lox, calling it "a timeless matchup of ingredients that's unreproducible anywhere else in the world." Russ & Daughters also offers hot-smoked fish, cold-smoked fish, pickled fish, bagels, challah, cream cheeses, salads, caviar, and roe.
Multiple locations