The Best Fish To Use When Making A Quenelle
The philosophy of French cuisine and its signature techniques — typically considered the peak of culinary prowess — is all about transforming simple ingredients like butter and flour into rich, elegant creations greater than the sum of their parts. One particular dish that perfectly encapsulates this is the quenelle, an oval-shaped, dumpling-like mixture of creamed fish (or meat), egg, and either cream or flour and butter, that is poached and then smothered in a delicious sauce. A kind of savory fish soufflé, quenelles are sometimes compared to gefilte fish or Chinese fish balls, though they are unique in preparation and presentation.
Quenelles originated in the French city of Lyon, known as the nation's gastronomic capital. There, they are known as quenelles de brochet and made with pike fish, which are plentiful in the region's ponds and streams. As the recipe spread, it was adapted to substitute different types of fishes, as well as chicken or other meats. The term quenelle is sometimes used to refer to the shape of the dish, which other foods, like mashed potatoes or ice cream, may be molded into.
Since they were originally made with pike, it's best to stick with lean, white fish when preparing traditional quenelles. According to Robert DiGregorio, director of seafood quality at the Fulton Fish Market, "It's best to look for a lean fish that is fine grained. A great choice is halibut. This works well because of its slightly sweet mild flavor that doesn't overpower other parts of the dish."
Putting together the perfect French quenelles
The magic of quenelles comes from nailing their light, fluffy texture and delicate fish flavor. This is another reason Robert DiGregorio recommends cooking with halibut. He says, "The firm flesh holds its shape well and prevents the dish from becoming too mushy."
When it comes to assembling quenelles, fish puree and egg whites for binding are essential components. Some expert chefs start by making a panade, a mixture of butter, flour, and egg, before folding in the fish and egg whites, while others rely simply on cream to thicken and flavor the mousse. Like poached eggs, quenelles are poached in water and molded with spoons to create their characteristic shape, so their size will depend on that of the spoons.
Quenelles can be served a variety of ways, including as dumplings in soup, but are most popularly presented on their own, swimming in sauce. Sauces can vary as well, from a creamy white sauce to a red wine demi-glace, although one of the most common choices is Nantua sauce, which originated in the French community of the same name, not far from Lyon. Consisting of a béchamel base combined with crayfish butter, Nantua is considered a daughter of one of the five French mother sauces. Quenelles Nantua are an iconic jewel of regional French cuisine so beloved that a variation was even served at Princess Diana's wedding, albeit with a lobster-based sauce.