What To Look For When Buying Sushi Grade Fish

Biting into a firm, succulent piece of sushi or sashimi (yes, there is a difference between the two) and enjoying the crisp, almost sweet snap of a perfect morsel of tuna or mackerel is one of life's simple pleasures. When you're ordering sushi made by someone else, in a restaurant or grocery store, you generally trust them to use the best possible fish they can. But what if you're making rolls yourself? Do you know what it is you're looking for as you sort through packets of salmon or yellowfin fillets? Chowhound reached out to Robert DiGregorio, director of seafood quality at New York's Fulton Fish Market, for some tips on what to look for and what to avoid when buying sushi grade fish.

DiGregorio has been working as the iconic fish market's esteemed seafood quality expert for over a decade and has been working in some capacity with fish since 1972. Accordingly, he is familiar with all things piscine. In general, he notes that the same elements you'd look for when shopping for almost any fresh or fresh-frozen fish come into play when shopping for sushi and sashimi. The key points are firm flesh, bright or clear colors, and a fresh, subtle ocean smell (most fish doesn't smell all that fishy, until it's been sitting around too long). In fact, while some shops sell specific fillets designed to be easily sliced into sushi or sashimi, any fresh ocean-going fish — whole or filleted — is essentially "sushi grade."

It's important to know what sushi grade means when it comes to fish. In the U.S., there's no regulation of the term "sushi grade." There are, however, FDA regulations regarding serving raw fish in restaurants and stores. Fish must be deep-frozen for a specific amount of time to kill pathogens, except for farm-raised salmon and certain species of tuna, which are largely parasite free. Freshwater fish isn't used for sushi, ceviche, or other raw dishes, because of a higher risk of parasites.

Thus, determining the quality of a piece of raw fish, beyond meeting those standards, is left to you. "The first very noticeable thing is the color," says Robert DiGregorio. "If the color looks flat, dull, or unnatural, or if the fish looks like it's changing color, turning brown or greenish, that may be a strong indication that the fish isn't fresh." The reverse, of course, is what you're seeking. "The fish should have a natural sheen to it and the flesh should be translucent."

Next, take a good whiff. "It should have a clean, bright smell, fresh and light," according to DiGregorio. "Maybe a little salty like the ocean." He also advises you to not be afraid to ask to smell it if the fish is behind glass. "If it smells sour or pungent or 'off' in any way do not buy it."

The next step is a bit more subjective: texture. You're essentially looking for the sweet spot between tough and mushy. It's a skill you'll develop after handling any specific fish for a time. This is even evident in similar species of fish. There's a difference between how yellowfin and bluefin tuna feel and taste when you bite into them.

"Different fish will have different textures, depending on fat content, oil content, moisture content, etc," Robert DiGregorio explains. "Even different cuts from the same fish can have a different texture. For example, the silky, fatty mouthfeel from a piece of otoro compared to a piece of akami (red meat) from the same tuna." With large tuna like bluefin, everything from the gill flesh to the belly and back are used for different styles of sashimi or sushi, and each cut has a different name ("otoro" refers to the fattiest part of the tuna fish).

For DiGregorio, the general goal is the same when you press or hold any piece of fish. "Ideally fresh fish should have a firm, smooth texture, but not hard or tough." It should bounce back and not dent when you lightly touch it. "The flesh should be a little springy, not too soft or mushy." After that, it comes down to the knowledge and knife skills of the chef. "When cut properly," says DiGregorio, "a piece of sushi or sashimi should practically melt in your mouth."