Not Pasta, Not Potato — This Old-Fashioned Deli Salad Starts With A Canned Vegetable
Retro salads hold a special place in the culinary world. From Waldorf to ambrosia, and even the perfect old-fashioned potato salad, they're tried and true recipes that have stood the test of time since the mid-20th century. And deli salads are of their own caliber — there's something so nostalgic about combining a protein like tuna, chicken, or ham with a smattering of vegetables to be coated with a tangy mayonnaise dressing. Enjoyed on their own or tucked between two slices of toasted, crusty bread, these old-fashioned salads are a great way to get a meal on the table with minimal effort and expense. But there's one such salad that skips the animal protein in favor of a canned vegetable as its star ingredient: Behold, the pea salad.
This popular Southern classic features peas, crunchy bacon bits, sharp red onion, and cheese — typically cheddar or American — cut into small cubes before being tossed in a mayonnaise-based dressing. Though we don't precisely know the salad's origin, it's akin to the classic, equally retro and popular side dish seven-layer dip, minus many of the steps. Often served after Sunday church service for brunch, the combination of textures and flavors, from the sharpness of the cheese and the crunch of the bacon to the pop of the peas, spice of the red onion, and the tangy dressing, makes this salad a crowd-pleaser. (You're better off making a big batch.) It's meant to be served cold, and, like seven-layer dip, this salad stands the test of time, and can be dished up in no time, while not breaking the bank.
How to make retro pea salad at home
To whip up your own batch of traditional Southern pea salad, mix sour cream and some quality mayonnaise (like Duke's, revered among chefs, and the go-to for this North Carolinian) in a bowl, then season with salt, freshly ground black pepper, and a splash of white vinegar. Gently fold in the peas, chopped bacon, cheese, and red onion until combined. Adjust the seasoning to taste, then refrigerate for at least one hour or until ready to eat. With or without a hard-boiled egg on the top (or diced and tossed inside) this is a dish you can make ahead of a picnic or potluck, and, like many mayonnaise-dressed salads, it may taste even better the next day.
A few simple tips will help make this traditional salad the best it can be. If you're making the dish with canned peas (an affordable and convenient move), drain and chill them before assembling the salad to help preserve their texture. (If you're looking for maximum crispness, try swapping in fresh, shelled peas or thawed frozen peas.) For a fresh, seasonal twist, fold in a smattering of spring herbs, such as tarragon and chives. If red onion is too sharp for your taste, soak it briefly in a water-vinegar solution to mellow its bite, or swap it for its milder cousin, the shallot. You can also substitute sherry or apple cider vinegar for white vinegar to lend the salad a slightly sweeter, more nuanced flavor.