Why So Many Old-School Diners Serve Pie
Pie is quintessentially American, hence the phrase, "as American as apple pie." Likewise, diners are a fundamental part of U.S. culinary culture and history. And since the late 19th century, diners and pie have been so intertwined throughout the American experience that it's hard to think of one without the other. That's one reason so many old-school diners still offer the classic dessert: People so strongly associate the two that it feels familiar and nostalgic. Couple that with the fact that pie goes so well with coffee, tastes great, and is easy to serve, and it's no wonder why pretty much every vintage greasy spoon and retro-themed diner chain has it on the menu.
While many diners serve breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner, and dessert, they're commonly associated with morning and midday meals, when coffee is most frequently served. Thus, they're ideal places for enjoying a slice of pie with a cup of joe. There's also a longstanding precedent of people eating pie for their first meal of the day, especially around the holidays, even if the practice is not as in vogue as it once was.
In the United States, specifically in New England, this penchant for pie began in the mid-1700s, influenced by Medieval European gastronomic tradition. While its popularity waned over time, the baked good made a big comeback in the years before, during, and after World War II, as rising car ownership and the advent of highways delivered hungry Americans to diners' doorsteps.
A delicious slice of life
While those early pies in 18th-century America were typically savory and commonly consisted of lobster meat, oysters, egg yolk, flour, and spices, the country developed a preference for sweeter varieties — especially ones made with fruit — by the 1800s. By mid-century, this American affinity for pie was considered by some to have become unhealthy, leading to a decline in consumption. But when pie's resurgence happened in the 20th century, it was again the sweet kind that had the edge, which helps explain why those pastries became the most common ones offered at diners in the '50s and '60s. In addition to apple, some of the most popular types of diner pie through the years have been blueberry, cherry, chocolate, lemon meringue, and banana cream.
Over the last few decades, diner-style pies have gained favor again, partly thanks to pop culture influences like movies, television, and theater shows. Think of all the times you've seen characters, maybe a police officer or detective like Dale Cooper in "Twin Peaks" or the outlaws in "True Romance," stop at a diner for a slice of pie with coffee — or when you've been smitten with a diner pie-maker and/or server like Keri Russell's Jenna in "Waitress." Yes, even if diners aren't quite as popular as they once were, diner pie seems like it's here to stay as both a satisfying meal ender and an enduring piece of Americana.