The Anthony Bourdain-Approved Pizza Joint Slinging Freshly Made Dough In Portland
Anthony Bourdain was known for his unique ability to discover and share hidden culinary gems around the world. A classically trained chef, author, TV producer and host, Bourdain celebrated quite a few stateside eateries, making it clear that the United States offers plenty of restaurants that hold their own on the global culinary scene. One of his favorites: Apizza Scholls, a Portland, Oregon must-visit spot for those who want to enjoy a slice of East Coast-style pie on the other side of the lower 48.
In Season 3 Episode 3 of "No Reservations," Bourdain ventured to the Pacific Northwest to explore what the area had to offer and stumbled upon Apizza Scholls. Owner Brian Spangler shocked the host by telling him that the Apizza Scholls team makes all of its crust "100% by hand, no mixer." "Who does that? Nobody does that," Bourdain said. Spanger said that the by-hand process is key to nailing the right dough texture, as it creates "not only some pull, but also some crackle." Many diners agree, with some heralding the crust as a Goldilocks-perfect blend of not too crisp, yet not too soft.
Great crust isn't the only thing the West Coast pizza joint is known for. Some of its pies are a bit off the beaten path. Bourdain tried three varieties: quattro formaggio, pizza margherita, and fresh clam pie (you read that correctly). When he chowed down on the first bite, New York-born Bourdain gave the slice the highest praise possible, saying, "This is New York pizza. Really good, high-end New York pizza."
What sets Apizza Scholls apart — and what to know before you go
In addition to the handmade dough, there are a few other ways the crew at Apizza Scholls does things a little differently. For one, you can't exactly have it your way. You aren't allowed to have more than three toppings on your pizza. While talking with Anthony Bourdain, Brian Spangler said, "You can only have three toppings total, and one meat," Spangler said. "Pizza is about the crust and the sauce and the cheese, and keeping that in balance — it's the mark of someone who knows their craft." Spangler has a point — overloading a pie with toppings can create an overwhelming-in-a-bad-way flavor experience, and topping discernment is a smart hack for a better pie.
Ready to give Apizza Scholls a try? You'll want to get there early, if you can swing it. The unassuming, hole-in-the-wall pizza joint fills up fast, and if you're too late, you're out of luck. The restaurant doesn't take reservations (fitting, given Bourdain's love for the place), and pies frequently sell out by 8:30 p.m. or so (especially on the weekends). To boost the likelihood of scoring one of Bourdain's favorite pies, you'll want to arrive early — dinner seating starts at 5 p.m. Of the restaurant's passion for providing customers with the a fantastic experience, Bourdain said it best. "In a community that is already a showcase for artisanal food, this place dedicates a particularly ferocious dedication to getting it right."