Here's What Deli Meats Go On A True Italian Sub

Some foods incite debate. Questions about whether cereal is actually soup, whether a hot dog is a sandwich, or whether tomato sauce is different from tomato gravy have ended friendships and torn families asunder. So it's nice when the rules are unmovable. Such is the case with a classic Italian sub, which must include a precise array of meats to hold its title: ham capicola, salami, and pepperoni.

To be clear, the Italian sub in question is distinctly American; you're considerably more likely to find this massive sandwich near the East River than the Amalfi Coast. Many purveyors agree on this essential trio of meats, including Defonte's in Brooklyn, a century-old shop widely considered the best of its kind in New York City and a local authority on the sandwich. Capicola adds a tender richness, salami brings a tangy, fatty depth, and pepperoni delivers a spicy kick with notes of paprika and black pepper. Now, you might see some variations on that lineup. Those variations are incorrect. Even well-intended adaptations that might cater more specifically to your own taste fall outside the bounds of a true Italian sub.

In addition to the ham capicola, salami, and pepperoni (which has far more applications than on pizza), you'll need the Italian bread that typifies a sub, along with provolone cheese, thinly sliced tomato, and shredded iceberg lettuce. You can add hot or sweet red peppers and a splash of oil and red wine vinegar, though skipping the peppers is perfectly acceptable. Admittedly, this might incense some folks, just as any disruption to the core proteins tends to spark controversy.

An Italian sandwich should also be built rather snugly, with the meat, cheese, and vegetables all pressed together so that each crucial layer fits together as one. This has been the case at other places that successfully approximate Defonte's famous Italian sub. That mild density gives the hefty sandwich gravitas and a satisfying sense of structure. Italian subs should be sliced down the center to reveal the kaleidoscope of ingredients swirling within. This also makes it easier to share with a pal and set right what all those other food fights compromised.