Why One Of The Most Expensive Soup Ingredients Actually Raises Ethical Concerns
From foils of pure gold to freshly shaved white truffles, the culinary world is packed with ingredients that are deemed to be emblematic of luxury dining. Among them is possibly one of the most expensive ingredients that might signify status but warrants a second thought before ordering, and that is the fin of a shark. Foods featuring the meat from a shark, in addition to being among the worst-tasting foods according to both Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern, raise significant ethical concerns. The obvious one is for the sharks whose population is already rapidly dwindling. Shark finning entails cutting off their fins and often discarding the still-living sharks back into the water, and subjecting them to that for an ingredient that, on its own has little notable flavor. With growing awareness in the food space, some chefs have tapped into the diverse plant kingdom to recreate the familiar texture of shark fin soup without harming sharks or any other forms of sea life, similar to how you can use chickpeas as a plant-based take on tuna salad.
The environmental concerns are also shocking. Oceanic shark abundance has fallen dramatically, with studies reporting a 71% decline over about 50 years, largely driven by fishing pressure. About one-third of sharks and other related species are now classified as "threatened with extinction" and that number is rising. Sharks are killed by the millions every year to supply meat and fins, with some analyses estimating catches of roughly 100 million sharks per year. This has a domino effect on oceanic ecosystems because sharks are apex predators who help regulate marine food webs. In the grand scheme of things, imbalances in the oceanic ecosystems will ultimately impact land-dwellers as well.
The tides are turning for the sharks
There's been a shift in the cultural perception about shark fin soup, according to Andrea Richey, the executive director of the Hong Kong Shark Foundation, an organization dedicated to education, outreach, and behavior change to protect sharks and oceans. Richey described that shift as a "very gradual, but evident transition away from accepting shark fins as a luxury, particularly among younger generations." One of the foundation's leading campaigns has been addressing the ethical and environmental concerns around shark fin soup by raising public awareness through school and youth education programs, community events, hosting dried-fin market tours, and advocating for stronger enforcement and policy change. Owing to the centuries-long tradition of consuming shark fin soup, Richey pointed out that older and wealthier generations tend to tie the dish to status and ceremony. There is also a body of myths surrounding the medicinal properties of shark fin soup, when bodies of research show that it is, in fact, a harmful source of mercury and other toxins.
Younger generations seeking to make informed decisions, whether driven by animal welfare or environmental concerns, are amenable to leaving sharks and other forms of sea life off their plates. Market segmentation surveys focusing on Mainland China show that younger cohorts are less likely to consume shark fin and more likely to stop when presented with conservation messaging. "Shark fin soup is considered a 'prestige' food, served at weddings and corporate banquets; rejecting it can be perceived as disrespectful," Richey said. In addition, she emphasizes the need for effective outreach, which in turn requires culturally sensitive messaging and "framing change as modern, responsible prestige rather than loss of tradition."