The One-Off French Laundry Dish Created Just For Anthony Bourdain That 'Embarrassed The Hell' Out Of Him

The late, great chef, author, and television personality Anthony Bourdain was known for his no-holds-barred food opinions and his ultra-cool New York City attitude. But a very different side of Bourdain was showcased in a 2002 episode of his series "A Cook's Tour," in which he met chef Thomas Keller and ate at his unrivaled three-Michelin-starred restaurant The French Laundry in Napa Valley, California. As it turned out, Keller had a surprise for Bourdain that left him blushing, but happy to dive into a very unique dish.

Keller made a one-off signature custard for Bourdain that included two things he loved: coffee and cigarettes. That's right — Keller, who is famed for his creativity and attention to detail, crafted a dish that included Marlboro cigarettes as an ingredient along with coffee just for Bourdain. And while Bourdain may not have included it in his list of all-time favorite dishes that included a Brazilian mortadella sandwich, he did feel it was quite delicious. Besides showing embarrassment, Bourdain also seemed quite giddy about getting to meet Keller and to experience dining at one of the hardest places to get a reservation in the country. 

Anthony Bourdain shared his hours-long meal at The French Laundry with three high-profile friends from the food world — chefs Eric Ripert and Scott Bryan, along with author Michael Ruhlman. Chef Thomas Keller provided each of them with separate multi-course tasting menus. The meal started with his signature salmon tartar cornets and only got more elaborate from there. About halfway through the meal, Keller sent out the one-off custard dish for Bourdain, whom he referred to as "the Marlboro Man."  The coffee custard infused with tobacco was served with a foie gras mousse. "We've never made that before, and we made it in his honor," Keller commented during the episode of "A Cook's Tour." When Bourdain learned Keller had made the dish for him, he seemed both delighted and a bit mortified. "He knows I'm a degenerate smoker," Bourdain said. "This embarrassed the hell out of me, but it was utterly delightful."

Bourdain had a long and complex relationship with cigarettes. He smoked on and off throughout his life. He also had a fondness for coffee, preferring New York bodega coffee in a cardboard cup. According to Bourdain, he got a nicotine buzz from the tobacco in Keller's dish, and the custard was delicious. If you're lucky enough to dine at The French Laundry, don't expect a coffee and tobacco custard. That night in 2002 was Keller's first and last foray into this unique dish that he made exclusively for Bourdain.