How To Tone Down The Fishy Flavor Of Salmon
Whether you're choosing the best cut for stuffed fish, eating it raw (as sashimi or tartare), or simply giving it a restaurant-worthy grill, salmon is a reliable, versatile, and delicious fish. One of the world's favorite proteins, it's wonderfully simple to make at home — but there's one pitfall that sometimes puts people off. For many, salmon's distinctively "fishy" aroma, can be a real turn-off. While it's not the most appealing smell in the world, that fishiness is hardly a sign of spoilage. Salmon is a naturally fatty fish, and those oils carry strong aromas due to the concentration of flavor in them. Of course, the older a fish is, the more those oils will oxidize and the more pronounced those flavors will get, but even in the freshest of salmon fillets, you might still pick up a whiff. Fear not, though, as there are plenty of ways to effectively mitigate those odors, especially with regards to how they impact the taste of your food.
To find out more about how, we spoke to chef Lei Jiang, chef de cuisine at The Fulton by Jean-Georges in NYC's Seaport neighborhood. So how do you know if your salmon has gone bad, or if it's just naturally smelly? "If salmon smells or tastes overly fishy, it's often a sign the fish isn't fresh," he said. "But fattier fish like salmon naturally have a stronger aroma, so smell alone isn't everything. Look at the flesh — if it's slimy or so soft it falls apart when you touch it, that's when you know it's gone bad." Make sure your fish is vibrant in color and firm to the touch, and remember that the goal here isn't to eliminate salmon's natural flavor — it's to balance it, to ensure clean, bright flavors.
How to reduce fishiness before cooking salmon
Even the freshest pieces of salmon may smell a little stronger than you might like — but according to chef Lei Jiang, there are a few simple techniques that can help balance those stronger fishier notes, without compromising the flavor of your final dish. "Soaking salmon in milk can help reduce the fishy smell," he told us. While it's an effective trick — and one you've probably heard of, there are still various factors to keep in mind to ensure you get the best results. "It works, but you don't want to leave it too long or the flesh will get too soft," chef Jiang said. Milk contains proteins, which bind with the compounds in fish that cause those less than pleasant odors, neutralizing the smell.
It's far from the only option at your disposal, though: Chef Jiang also recommends using other, more traditional marinades to ensure the best flavor, smell and texture for your salmon. "Another great option is a quick salt brine," he said, "which not only cuts the odor but also firms and seasons the fish." Brining is a great option for proteins as it allows the seasoning to penetrate deep inside the flesh, resulting in a real consistency when it comes to flavor and texture. "Acidic marinades, like citrus, work too — just keep the timing short so the acid doesn't start cooking the fish," chef Jiang added. Those more acidic marinades will add a lovely bit of brightness to the flavor of your dish, too, waking the whole thing up and highlighting the naturally meaty qualities of salmon whilst adding a touch of welcome depth.
How to balance the fishier flavors of salmon once it's been cooked
Even though you might have given your salmon just enough time in a milk bath, salt brine or a zingy citrus marinade — and even though you might have cooked it perfectly, sometimes that naturally fishy aroma can still come through more than you'd like. This is where your chef's instincts should really come in — though you can't change the inherent flavor of the fish, you can control what you pair it with. Choosing the right ingredients to finish off your dish can help to balance those fishier tasting notes. "I like to finish salmon with a squeeze of lemon and a handful of fresh herbs," chef Lei Jiang said. The citrus here will, much like it does in a marinade, bring a bit of zingy brightness that balances out the richness of the fatty salmon, cutting through what can otherwise be quite an overwhelming flavor.
The herbs, on the other hand, add a cooling sensation, a bit of aromatic contrast that deepens the complexity of the flavor profile, highlighting the salmon's meatiness, while masking its less enjoyable qualities. "Dill, tarragon, or sorrel all brighten the flavor beautifully," chef Jiang added. The same effect can also be achieved by adding a creamy element — think tzatiki, a versatile, bright yogurt dressing; aioli; or crème fraîche. The contrast that this creaminess provides will make the oils of the salmon feel lighter in comparison, and like with an acid, will add freshness to the final dish.