Why Is Fernet-Branca Referred To As The 'Bartender's Handshake?'

If you have ever been offered a mysterious, bitter shot at the end of the night by a bartender, chances are it was Fernet-Branca. Dark, herbaceous, and unapologetically bold, this Italian amaro isn't everyone's cup of tea. Yes, you can elevate your cup of joe with it, but its sharply bitter flavor profile is not meant to go down easily. But in the world of bartenders, it holds a sacred place, a badge of honor, a rite of passage, and what many call the "bartender's handshake." Think of it as a clever wink or a gesture of goodwill. What started as a post-shift ritual in bars has become a symbol. The "bartender's handshake" isn't just a drink, it's a gesture of mutual respect.

This 19th-century Italian digestif has become a beloved insider's secret in today's ever-evolving cocktail scene. Fernet-Branca was created in Milan in 1845 by Bernardino Branca as a medicinal tonic. With a closely guarded recipe that includes 27 herbs and spices, like saffron, myrrh, aloe, and gentian, it was originally marketed as a cure for everything from menstrual cramps to cholera. For much of the 20th century, Fernet-Branca was mainly consumed in Italy and Argentina (where it's famously mixed with Coca-Cola). But in the early 2000s, something shifted, and bartenders in the U.S. began adopting it as their own. Fernet started showing up in bars from San Francisco to Brooklyn, usually poured as a discreet shot between industry peers.

The idea is elegant and simple. When one bartender visits another's bar, the host might offer a shot of Fernet as a silent nod of professional camaraderie. It's strong, complex, and not for everyone, just like the job itself. This unspoken tradition has become a reflection of the shared grind, long hours, and behind-the-bar community that define life in the service industry. The drink's rise in popularity was helped along by bar culture in cities like San Francisco, where it became almost synonymous with the service industry. A post from The Melt noted that Fernet's appeal lies in its "hardcore" flavor, too intense for most casual drinkers, but perfect for jaded palates used to trying everything. It's also one of the few spirits bartenders are unlikely to overserve themselves on. One shot is enough.

More recently, Fernet-Branca has started making its way into cocktails again, especially as the craft cocktail revival continues to value bold, historical ingredients. Modern bartenders are reworking it into drinks like the Toronto, with rye whiskey and simple syrup, and home mixologists are giving hot chocolate a boozy spin with a splash of the bold liqueur. Despite its rise in popularity, Fernet's mystique still lives on. For the average drinker, it remains a curious, almost intimidating oddity. But to bartenders, it's a tradition built on late nights and fleeting friendships. A tradition that is sipped alongside another and not thrown back too quickly.

Next time a bartender slides a dark shot your way with a sly grin and a "cheers," sip slowly. Revel in the invitation. You're officially in on the secret.