The Unconventional NYC Steakhouse Specializing In Just One Cut Of Meat (No Ribeyes Here)

When it first opened in Manhattan in 2021, New York City seemed to raise a collective eyebrow at Skirt Steak. It was the latest venture from Laurent Tourondel, a well-known French chef. It attracted droves of folks from the TikTok set. And, not unrelated, it had plenty of gimmicks. Skirt Steak is both the restaurant's name and its only main course. It's also often overshadowed by pricier cuts like ribeyes and New York strips. The diaphragm-sourced selection is super flavorful, but typically more associated with the affordable steaks that one might make at home than those they'd order at cosmopolitan restaurants. But Skirt Steak also has unlimited French fries. That classic pairing, plus a pile of decent greens, initially only cost $28. The restaurant also offered some semi-secret off-menu dishes, like cauliflower steaks, which helped to create buzz.

All the hype around Skirt Steak made it the kind of place that New Yorkers were naturally skeptical of. The aspiring influencers in the mix were also kind of a red flag. And they were forming the lines that most of us just prefer to avoid. But Skirt Steak's eponymous star item and accoutrements turned out to be pretty good. The single-entree spot remains open years later, albeit at a higher, $48 prix fixe price.

Skirt Steak only accommodates walk-ins unless you have a group of seven or more (in which case, you can reach out to the restaurant directly). Luckily, the lines that characterized the place's early days seem to have subsided. If you sit at the bar, you'll be in the center of a space that feels like it was erected from Tinkertoys, but one that's quaintly charming amid Manhattan's considerably less rustic vibes. Visits also tend to be fairly quick since there are few decisions to make with the prix fixe, so you can reasonably plan your meal around other timed activities, like events at nearby Madison Square Garden.

You'll have the steak frites, naturally. Although chef Laurent Tourondel has cautioned against overcooking skirt steak, guests can order the headlining selection to their liking (however inadvisable). Keep your doneness to medium, max, and the beef will have the rich, savory concentration you're looking for without any unwelcome chewiness. (A wagyu upgrade is available, but some diners question its value.) It will go great with a classic, cold martini, but sweeter novelties, like a key lime variety, are also available. Sides are seasonal and change often, featuring everything from stuffed mushrooms to cauliflower gratin to an homage to Outback Steakhouse's Bloomin' Onion. Unless you load up on the unending fries, which you should absolutely dip in the steak's accompanying black pepper béarnaise sauce, you might still have room for sweets from the restaurant's impressive dessert trolley. Choosing one will be the hardest decision you'll have to make at Skirt Steak, but a tasty one, nonetheless.