The Fascinating Tale Of How Missouri Got Its Own Version Of Bourbon Legalized

If there's one thing the U.S. is especially proud of, it's the nation's iconic bourbon. However, before we get into the basics, it's essential to understand the critical differences between bourbon and whiskey. By law, bourbon requires 51% corn, new charred oak barrels where it can mature for a minimum of two years, as well as contain zero additives. While diving into these differences could take forever, in essence, all bourbon can be classified as whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon. So, if you're thinking rye, Scotch or Irish whiskey, you're looking in the wrong direction. 

Even though bourbon can be made anywhere in the U.S., two states have dominated the market: Kentucky, which produces roughly 95% of the world's supply, and Tennessee, known for its signature charcoal filtration method called the Lincoln County Process. While these two states spent years at the top, that changed on August 28, 2019, when Missouri entered the picture with its very own legalized take on the legendary spirit.

In an exclusive conversation, David Weglarz, founder and owner of Still 630, a craft distillery based in St. Louis, revealed the idea was sparked by the recognition of Kentucky bourbon and Empire Rye in New York. "We know Missouri is one of the best agricultural states and the world's best barrels are made here," Weglarz (co-founder and second President of the Missouri Craft Distillers Guild) told Chowhound. "So we wanted to plant an international flag for the great work we're doing," Weglarz explained.

For whiskey to be listed as Missouri bourbon, it must first meet all federal standards plus the complete production process needs to take place within the state. This includes mashing, fermentation, distillation, aging, and ultimately, bottling. What's more, only Missouri-grown corn can be used in the mash. And if that's not enough, the spirit also has to be aged in charred oak barrels grown and manufactured locally. But this requirement isn't random – the reason bourbon has to be aged in charred oak barrels has to do with achieving the best flavors and aromas.

David Weglarz explained that while producers had been doing the heavy lifting for years, the hardest part of the process was persuading legislators of its statewide value. It not only promotes U.S. farmers and entrepreneurs, but it further strengthens tourism. "But the idea clearly needs time to build and establish itself as a statement of quality and not just a pat-on-the-back for ourselves," he noted. "Trying to get any legislation through the halls of state legislature is a herculean task in and of itself."

Weglarz emphasized the initiative faced fewer opponents than most efforts, but it still had its critics. "There is still a sizeable Temperance movement here and the anti-alcohol lobby is real and vocal," he added. "But I find it incredible that my own, along with several other distillers', testimony is on the Senate record."

David Weglarz noted the historic moment he will never forget. "Getting to stand beside the Governor as he signed the bill into law was an amazing experience," he said. When asked about the way this recognition impacts Missouri distillers and public perception, he said it gives them a clear goal and a foundation to build on. 

Moreover, it allows them to take full advantage of the region's humid continental climate and natural resources, in addition to the Ozarks' high-quality water (which is widely regarded as one of the finest for distilling in the country), to shape and grow their own brand. But the recognition doesn't come without pressure and additionally, it brings higher expectations. "We have to continue to produce spirits worthy of greater scrutiny and enjoyment," Weglarz concluded. "And the greater awareness it brings shines a brighter light on the incredible spirits that are being produced all across Missouri, above and beyond Missouri Bourbon itself!"

Missouri is more than its smoky barbecue, toasted ravioli, and gooey butter cake. And it isn't only famous for creating the ice cream cone. Turns out, it's also home to some award-winning bourbon brands every whiskey lover should know about. So the next time you happen to find yourself in the Midwest, stop by a local bar and give the state's liquid gold a proper taste.