The Old-School Comfort Meal That Used To Be So Popular At Steakhouses

A lot of classic steakhouses retain a kind of throwback aesthetic decade after decade. But their menu items might cycle in and out to reflect the dining zeitgeist. You're always going to find your filet mignon and Chateaubriand, along with other confirmed steakhouse favorites. But plenty of other forgotten retro foods have been lost to the hospitality archives. The onion loaves that might have topped tables in the days of yore, for example, are largely absent from most restaurants today.

The name "onion loaf" manages to sound both mysterious and a little unappetizing at the same time. The mind drifts to something more like a meatloaf in composition, but that image raises more questions than it answers. An onion loaf is more like the allium's answer to a mille-feuille, in which an onion is sliced into thin rings, battered, layered, and pressed into a loaf shape before it's fried to a crisp finish. It's also obviously close in concept to a simple basket of individual onion rings, but, prepared in loaf form, the texture is daintier, and it requires a few slices of a knife to serve. It's not quite as ubiquitous as it might have once been, but you can still find onion loaves at the international family restaurant chain Tony Roma's. You can also whip one up for yourself.

A great onion loaf starts with great onions. Although fried is going to be your loaf's primary flavor note when all is said and done, there are several different types of onions, and each will bring a different subtle flavor to the final loaf. Something like a sweet Vidalia onion will provide a nice balance to the saltiness of the overall dish. You'll slice it about half as thin as you would for onion rings — about ¼-inch thick — to ensure against a dense, heavy block.

You'll also want to break out the breading and dredging components of your choice, which will probably include something like seasoned flour with cornstarch in one dish, and buttermilk in another. Making an onion loaf isn't exactly hard, but between your dredging and deep frying stations, the process does take up a lot of space. You'll need a big, deep pot to accommodate plenty of frying oil, plus the frying basket to give your loaf its shape. 

Once your sliced onions are coated twice for maximum possible crunch, you'll pile them high in the frying basket and press them together with the back of a big fork so the loaf better holds its shape. Then, you'll dip the loaf in the oil at 350 degrees Fahrenheit and fry for a few minutes until it's all cooked to golden. Remove the mass and place it on a plate of paper towels to drain. Serve with your preferred cut of beef for the full steakhouse vibe.