The Only Grape Varieties You Can Use To Make Tokaji Wine
Hungary is home to some astonishing wines. Whether it's a dry and spicy Egri Bikavér –- famously known as bull's blood –- or a light and elegant Kadarka, this small continental country at the heart of Europe has a little something for everyone's palate.
However, nothing can touch the quality of the dessert wines from the picturesque region of Tokaj, which, believe it or not, also happens to be the oldest wine region in the world. The area's golden Tokaji Aszú wine is a star among the many wines produced there, and after one sip, it's very evident why. Its candied citrus and ripe apricot notes are beautifully paired with its honey-like sweetness due to the high sugar content of up to 180 grams.
But that harmony of flavors comes at a price, and no, not the one that hits your wallet (though $55 per bottle can be difficult to swallow). Each bottle starts with carefully hand-picked aszú berries, or botrytized grapes affected by noble rot (which we'll touch on later). As if that weren't enough, there are only six grape varieties (all white) that can be used to produce Tokaji: Furmint, Hárslevelű, Kabar, Kövérszőlő, Zéta, and Sárgamuskotály.
Why does Tokaji wine require specific grapes?
Hungarians take winemaking very seriously. Hence, their rules are pretty strict when it comes to which grape varieties go into the making what King Louis XIV of France called "the wine of kings, and the king of wines." You can experiment with other varieties as well, but if you ever plan to sell your wine, you can kiss the Tokaji label — and that higher price tag — goodbye. The true reason why these six grape varieties were chosen comes down to several factors.
First and foremost, they are indigenous to the area. This makes them a natural fit for the wine region's continental climate and volcanic soils, which largely contribute to the wines' distinct mineral notes. Additionally, all of them, some more than others, are prone to noble rot, also known as Botrytis cinerea. Noble rot is a type of fungus that's behind the wine's signature sweetness. Of the six, Furmint and Hárslevelű are the most susceptible to noble rot, making them the backbone of the varietal blend in Tokaji wines.
Finally, local grape growers have been cultivating these six varieties for more than a thousand years. What's even more impressive is that by sticking to the same recipe, vintners have preserved the unique character of Tokaji wine all this time. It's just part of why the wine region was recognized as a UNESCO Historic Cultural Landscape.
What goes best with Tokaji?
When you have such a sweet, topaz-colored blend with so much going on and different varieties playing a role in its structure, it's only natural to wonder what to pair it with. Tokaji's long-lasting and intense sweetness makes it a bit tough to pair with many dishes because it can overshadow them. Since it's similar to Sauternes, a botrytized dessert wine that pairs perfectly with creme brulee, Tokaji, with its dried fruit notes and saffron and ginger aromas (which stem from the noble rot), makes an equally great match.
You might be thrilled to know that Aszú also pairs beautifully with dark chocolate, a rarity among wines. So pour yourself a 2-ounce glass chilled to about 57 degrees Fahrenheit and try combining it with a chocolate mousse or a tasty lava cake. Blue cheese is also something to consider, which is fitting when you consider that blue cheese is also made with mold. Tokaji wine will beautifully balance the cheese's salty side.
Though foie gras is illegal in so many countries, Hungary is not one of them. Maybe that's because its government officials know how well a glass of Aszú pairs with this luxurious goose liver delicacy.