The Difference Between Portuguese And Hong Kong Egg Tarts
One of the most fascinating aspects of international cuisine is how different cultures often have their own unique takes on a widely known dish. We can see it with something more broad, like how noodles are eaten differently around the world, or something very specific, like regional variations of egg tarts.
Egg tarts are a type of pastry that features a single, open-faced crust and a slightly sweet egg custard filling. Though it can be hard to parse the differences between various types of crusted pastries, like pies, tarts, and galettes, egg tarts are true to their name, possessing the signature structure of the baked good.
As with many dishes throughout the world, it's difficult to pin down the exact history of these pastries or which country invented them first. We do know that in Portugal, egg tarts were created by monks sometime prior to the 19th century, while up north in Britain, the first recorded recipe for custard tarts dates back to the mid-15th century, although they weren't introduced to China for a few hundred years. Nowadays, egg tarts are well known as a dish in Chinese dim sum, but even within Chinese territories, the pastries are generally distinguished into two regional categories: Portuguese and Hong Kong. Though their basic components are similar, Portuguese and Hong Kong egg tarts differ by their crust and flavor, as well as by their origins.
All about Portuguese egg tarts, or pastéis de nata
In Portuguese, the country's prized egg tarts are known as pastéis de nata, which roughly translates to cream pastries. The recipe traces back to the Jerónimos Monastery, which was located in what is now the modern Belém district of Lisbon, Portugal. Historically, the monks and nuns of the parish used egg whites to starch their clothes, and turned the leftover egg yolks into sweet pastries. After the monastery closed in 1834 following the Liberal Revolution of 1820, monks began selling the egg custard tarts, then called pastéis de Belém, at a nearby sugar refinery, and sold the recipe to its owners, who opened the bakery that still bears that name today, according to its website. Pastéis de Belém is still the most famous destination for Portuguese egg tarts, but they are a popular treat in bakeries across the world.
Pastéis de nata feature a flaky puff pastry crust, creamy egg custard filling, and a slightly crispy top layer of caramelized sugar that is sometimes dusted with cinnamon. They generally have a sweeter flavor than Hong Kong style tarts. They are obviously popular in Portugal, but also have a significant share of fans in parts of Asia, particularly because of their popularity in Macau, formerly a colony of Portugal. KFC, which has a huge presence in Asia, even sells the Macau-style egg tarts, modeled on the Portuguese version, in its restaurants.
What to know about Hong Kong egg tarts
Unlike pastéis de nata, Hong Kong-style egg tarts have a shortbread crust with a smooth filling that has no caramelized top. Rather than a flaky cream puff, they more closely resemble a traditional, sturdy tart. The reason for these differences is because Hong Kong egg tarts were originally inspired by British custard tarts, not their Portuguese cousin.
According to expert dim sum chef Chan Chun-hung, British chefs introduced custard tarts to southern China in the 1920s (via the South China Morning Post). Local chefs then modified the recipe and brought it to Hong Kong following World War II. The original, first known recipe for custard tarts appeared in "Two 15th Century Cookbooks," a medieval cookbook published around 1450 in England — the second-oldest English language cookbook in history.
When Chinese chefs adapted a similar recipe in the early 20th century, they used a flaky dough popular in other savory dim sum pastries. However, many chefs switched to quicker and easier shortbread casing. As a result, egg tarts with both types of crusts can still be found throughout the region. Sometimes referred to as Cantonese egg tarts due to their origins in Guangzhou, these semi-sweet pastries are often spotted on dim sum menus and served in cafes around Hong Kong.