At Flour + Water restaurant in San Francisco, Chef Thomas McNaughton makes these tender-firm, sweet, and buttery tortelloni, flavored with sage, sprinkled with crisp toasted pumpkin seeds. It’s an elegant first course for a fall or winter dinner party with just the right rustic edge, or serve it as the main course of a special vegetarian supper around the holidays. The tortelloni look complicated to shape, but once you get the hang of it you can make them pretty fast. Bonus: Check out our behind-the-scenes visit to McNaughton’s test kitchen.
What to buy: Cinderella is an heirloom French pumpkin variety with rich-tasting flesh. Butternut squash makes a fine substitute, though the color won’t be as intensely orange.
Game plan: Make the pumpkin filling up to 2 days ahead. The Ravioli Pasta Dough is best rolled out just before you form the tortelloni, though the dough can rest as long as 6 hours before the final rolling.