I know there's been a lot of harsh words exchanged about Zuni Cafe lately (especially that epic rant over the under-done chicken, which troubled me enough to avoid it, I admit), but I wanted to convey my deep, smug satisfaction over the superlative Creme Brulee I had there on Saturday night. I have ordered Creme Brulee probably hundreds of times by now, in several states, countries, and across all manner of cuisines. This brulee was perfection itself- unadorned, unflavored (I hate it when they add some gimicky fruit "essence"), and unparalleled. It made the brulee at even some of the finest restaurants seem like quivering, gloppy, bland disappointment. Though some others may deride my praise as naive and misguided, I felt it was my duty to encourage those who have never tried to it run, not walk to Zuni and order it. Go on, wear those draw-string pants. You'll thank me later.