I paid my fourth or fifth visit to Vin Rouge this weekend. My initial enthusiasm is souring just a bit. The room and the menu admirably resist the trendy and the fusiony, but my quibbles with the cuisine are growing. First, I find just about everything on the menu a tad or more than a tad too salty. In more than one instance I've felt that dishes have been ruined by oversaltiness. I have no problem with salted food, so the problem is not my own unusual sensitivity. Second, I find the desserts mediocre. The chocolate tart is good, but everything else is so-so at best. This weekend I tried the chocolate mousse special. It was gummy and sweet, rather than light and bitter -- one of the worst chocolate mousses I can recall. The place is still worth visiting, but one must not expect an unmixed pleasure.