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Triangle: Magnolia Grill Bombs Big Time

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Triangle: Magnolia Grill Bombs Big Time

David A. | Nov 27, 2004 07:59 AM

An anniversay celebration took my family to Magnolia Grill for the second time. I first visited about two years ago, and I remember concluding that the food was good but not nearly as good as the restaurant's reputation would have it. This time around the food was dismal, and consistently dismal, from appetizer to dessert -- salty, heavy, busy, textureless (the main dishes especially). For the most part, the dishes were poorly conceived, and on top of this they were poorly executed. Some of the dishes were inexplicably bad, like the fried oyster appetizer, which was excessively salty, and the bourbon creme broulee, which was dense and rubbery. Even I know how to make a terrifically light and delicate creme broulee! It's not that hard! Based on last night's meal, I would rate the "fancy" restaurants in town -- those that I've tried -- this way:

1) Il Palio
2) Nana's
3) Fearrington House
4) Elaine's
5) Magnolia Grill

Here's how I would rate our dishes:

Grits and cheese souffle: A-
Fried Sweetbreads: A
Fried oysters: D

Scallops: B
Beef shortrib: D
Lamb: D
Minestrone: D

Chocolate souffle tart: D
Pumpkin Waffles with cinnamon ice cream: B
Bourbon creme broulee: D

David A.

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