Restaurants & Bars

Los Angeles Area Sushi

Takumi: Watch Out, Sushi Gen (long review)


Live your best food life.

Sign up to discover your next favorite restaurant, recipe, or cookbook in the largest community of knowledgeable food enthusiasts.
Sign Up For Free
Restaurants & Bars 7

Takumi: Watch Out, Sushi Gen (long review)

chowmominLA | Jan 24, 2007 02:11 PM

I had a wonderful sushi lunch at the brand new Takumi today. I had always thought it tragically ironic that Little Tokyo, of all places, has such a meager selection of noteworthy sushi bars. Up until now, to get my noontime sushi fix during the work week I had to choose the lesser of four evils: (1) endure the crowd of Sushi Gen; (2) have Sushi Gen for breakfast at 11:05 a.m.; (3) make the trek to Sushi Go 55 (so named because it seems you have to Go 55 miles to get there); or (4) drive somewhere else, typically my beloved Sushi Don in Valley Village. So I was delighted to read on these boards that I now have a fifth option.

Because Takumi opened its doors only on Monday, the restaurant was only half-full at peak lunchtime. The decor is very light and bright, new and modern. Its sushi bar is headed by Hiro, who spent the last eight years at Sushi Gen. The lunch specials and display bento box looked appealing but I was looking forward to enjoying my favorite nigiri selections and comparing them to Sushi Gen.

I started with an order of hamachi. I knew from the first glance as Hiro set it on my plate that Sushi Gen may be in trouble. The cuts were generous and flopped well over the sushi rice, just as Hiro had done every work day for the last eight years behind that other counter. The fish was very fresh, so it was no surprise that Takumi’s fish comes from the same fish market as Sushi Gen’s (one sushi chef explained to me that all sushi comes from the same fish market, but I find that hard to believe, given the wide disparity in freshness among all sushi bars.). The albacore would have been tender and moist even without the ponzu. The salmon was nicely marbled but not too fatty. I later learned that I had the honjake salmon, which was higher quality and thus a buck more per order ($5.50) than the regular salmon. I wanted to try something different, so I asked Hiro what is similar to my favorite, yellowtail. When he said kampachi, and I remembered how the kampachi at Sushi Zo the other night didn’t seem to have much taste and was my least favorite item, but I tried it anyway. I think this kampachi had more flavor than at Sushi Zo.

I asked Hiro if they have that sweet, green gelatinous kelp that Sushi Gen and a select few others blanket their salmon nigiri with. He pulled out a huge jar of it and served another order of honjake salmon with the kelp on top. As I reveled in it, Hiro explained that it’s called battera, although some quick Google searches seem at odds with that (battera appears to be a method of preparing mackerel.) Well, whatever it is, it’s awesome.

The toro is always tempting to me but I usually get cheap and pass on it when I find out the market price (at Nobu it’s about $10 per piece.) This time I decided to try it, at $10 per order, it was only half the price of Nobu. Hiro put one piece on my plate, making me fear that I had misunderstood and this toro was the same price as Nobu. I ate it, and it was good, although toro has always been a little too fatty for me (I know, I know, if I don’t like the fat, why get fatty tuna?) Then much to my delight, Hiro put the second piece on my plate. But this piece was seared, and it had a nice sauce on it, something between ponzu and the heavier, sweeter sauce on anago. The seared toro was much, much better, mouthwateringly delicious. The searing took away the excess fattiness and gave it a nice edge and texture, without sacrificing the flavor.

By this time I was full, which was a good thing because I knew the lunch bill was adding up. The final damage:

1 order hamachi ($4.50)
1 order albacore ($4.50)
2 orders honjake salmon ($5.50 each)
1 order kampachi (about $7.00)
1 order toro ($10.00)
1 diet coke (about $2.00) =

$43.30 (with tax, before tip)

The average price for sushi is $4.50 per order (e.g., for yellowtail, albacore, etc.), in line with Sushi Gen’s moderately high prices. But also like Sushi Gen, Takumi has some nice and affordable lunch specials and bento boxes. For example, they have the sushi moriawase lunch with eight pieces of assorted nigiri and six small pieces of tuna roll, for 12.50. They have a sashimi moriawase lunch that looks similar although not quite as good, as the Sushi Gen sashimi lunch special, for $12.50. They have several different chirashi and don bowls for about $12.50 each. They also have a Takumi Chicken Special (served all day) that comes with chicken teriyaki, sashimi (tuna, yellowtail and salmon, three small pieces of each), 3 CA roll and 3 spicy tuna pieces, six pieces of tempura, of which three are shrimp, salad, rice and miso for $19.95. The same special comes with beef instead of chicken for $21.95. They have a limited number of lunch bento boxes very similar to that of Izayoi for the same price of $9.50 (both have grilled mackerel, salad, soup and rice), except at Takumi you get chicken instead of the tempura and chawanmushi. I think. All I remember for sure is that from the looks of Takumi’s display bento box, I’d prefer Izayoi’s bento box.

The dinner menu is more comprehensive and has many more cooked dishes than the lunch menu. The omakase is $80 and changes nightly. It includes sushi, sashimi and cooked dishes. Hiro says it’s tailored to the customer. Oh, and to answer someone’s question from the other thread, Hiro is not the owner, but yes, he does love jazz.

333 E. 2nd Street (at the southwest entrance of Little Tokyo Village)
LA, 90012
(213) 626-1793
Lunch: 11:30 to 2:30
Dinner: 5:30 to 10:30
Open everyday

Want to stay up to date with this post?

Recommended From Chowhound