I finally decided to check out the offerings at the Basic Soy stand at the Tuesday Ferry Building market.
They have a variety of both prepared foods and plain fresh tofu. I was just going to get some plain firm tofu, but they were sampling everything so I tried the kung pao tofu.
Wow. Delicious! Diced smoked tofu, Spanish peanuts, cilantro, crushed red peppers and chile oil create a complex smoky-herbal-spicy taste sensation. Good but not as outstanding was the "tofu custard" (i.e. dofu fa), which they sell with a separate container of ginger syrup. In a little fusion cuisine experiment at my desk I added some sliced fresh nectarines, which made a nice vegan dessert.
The firm tofu has a clean, fresh taste and pleasant texture -- almost like very firm ricotta cheese.
I think my tofu consumption is going to be skyrocketing.