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Sage again!, North End, Boston


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Sage again!, North End, Boston

Limster | Jan 29, 2003 10:19 PM

Sea scallops were once again complemented by the sweet citrus acidity of clementines, rounded off by a rich Hollandaise sauce and piqued by the earthly spice of braised fennel.

The roasted chestnut soup with truffle cream and truffle oil seemed even better than the last time I had it, musky and sweet, with all the goodness of chestnuts.

The handrolled gnocchi is a exquisite cloud of tender potato; this time comes with a bolognese sauce and a very restrained horseradish cream sauce, just enough subtle horseradish pungence to lend an exciting note to the dish.

Firm, pure-tasting cod cheeks benefit tremdously from the tanginess of dried tomatoes and olives, and were nicely set in a nest of al dente spaghettini.

Salmon is beautifully cooked and reflects an extremely precise timing in the kitchen. Outside, the crab crust with breadcrumbs is lightly crisp and tender, inside, the salmon is supple and suave, like the texture ofa good smoked salmon. Roasted turnips add textural snap to the dish,

Pleasant mild gaminess on the roasted Cornish game hen that comes with a warm-hearted chestnut stuffing. Braised endives lends a leafy contrast to the meat. Great savory sauce too.

Soft vanilla-rich bread pudding is punctuated by perfectly spaced berries that bring a tiny but intense spot of tartness against the bread pudding.

Sauterne-poached pears were pleasantly floral, paired against fat blinis, an opulent cousin of the pancake.

A thin crisp crust holds the moussey warm chocolate together, also a progression of texture from crispness to exuberant chocolate softness. Vanilla and raspberry sauces provide additional flavour dimensions.

Tasting menu with all of the above in 5 courses was $55 per person, significantly cheaper than ordering a la carte. Excellent service as usual.

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