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Rico's Tacos, West L.A.

Thi N. | Sep 15, 200404:12 PM

Walking around after some serious go, I was craving Benito's. (Playing serious games hard - long nights of chess, go, and the like tend to put me, around about midnight or one, in pretty infantile modes, craving crispy bland masses.) Convinced my pal to go out walking with me the few blocks to the nearby Benito's.

We spot as we're walking up his block a little taco cart - in the minimall at the southeast corner of Santa Monica and Westgate. Right on the inside corner of a persian mini-mart, is, Rico's Tacos. (Or was it Pico's Tacos? I think Rico's.)

It was late - I think 12:30, they were about to close up. They were out of chorizo, they told me, but they had cabeza.

Cabeza turned out to be soft, supple, smooth, with a nice clear beef flavor. Fresh condiments, nice, zingy salsa verde. A near-perfect taco.

Probably the best taco I've had in the West L.A. area. Up there with Taqueria Sanchez for Westside tacos, and, as meat quality goes, far outstrips the two Oaxacan trucks that I frequent (the one on Lincoln near Rose, and the one on Santa Monica near Bundy), and the bunch of other trucks I've tried Westside. Pretty great.

Also: recently, at La Oaxacquena, the truck on Lincoln below rose that parks from 6 PM - 2 AM, I found a new perfect combination, up there with the lengua tlayuda - al pastor memela with quesillo. That's sort, soft thick corn masa base, with nice black bean paste, al pastor, and heaps of mildly sour, zingy Oaxacan cheese. Eyes-roll-up-into-the-head good.


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