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Richard Walker's Pancake House (San Diego)


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Richard Walker's Pancake House (San Diego)

DiningDiva | Aug 7, 2006 04:49 AM

Saturday morning after my delts, tris and bis were burning to the max, my quads quivering and my abs screaming after 400 crunchs, my buddy Chef Vinny and I decided to forego our usual post workout bagle and coffee at Twiggs and make a trip into downtown and try Richard Walker's Pancake House on Front St. between Market and Island.

It's no secret that I think the best meal San Diego does is breakfast. I was looking forward to new tastes and a new place. As we walked down Front a pulsating mob of people on the sidewalk came into view. Could it be? Was that really the spot? A line for breakfast? In San Diego?!!?!?!??

There was indeed a line and after being told the wait would be 20 minutes we queued up at the end of the line. No reservations are taken, so if there is a line, there is a line and you wait like everyone else. Richard Walker's Pancake House apparently hails from Chicago and has a reputation for doing big business and doing it quickly, otherwise known as "burn and turn". Chef Vinny and I were skeptical.

Since I never drink caffeine before working out, and being seriously in need of a morning jolt, I wandered off in search coffee. Since Starbuck's corporate policy puts a sotre on nearly every corner, I didn't have to wander far. I arrived back at the line 15 mintues later with my jolt of java in hand. We had move all of maybe 3 feet. This was not looking too promising. We talked about finding something else. But about that time Richard Walker himself came down the line handing out menus. It looked promising. We stayed.

The menu is mostly pancakes, Dutch babies, including a savory variation with veggies and havarti cheese, waffles, omeletes and some egg and dishes, i.e. eggs and bacon, eggs and corned beef hash, etc, and almost all of it is under $10. The line inched along. 20 mintues came and went, as did another 20 mintues. Ultimately the wait was nearly an hour, so much for burn and turn.

Finally we were led to a 2-top inside, right in front of the door and the cash register. Definitely not a desirable table, but I was hungry so we took it. Water and our waitress appeared before our butts were in our seats, I definitely felt rushed to order a beverage. We were also informed that once we'd decided on what we wanted to place our menus upside down on the edge of the table because that was the code that let the waitstaff know we were ready to order. An impossible task for me since I'm pretty notorious for changing my order right up until it's actually written down.

None the less I decided to go with 2 eggs over medium, sausage and 3 buttermilk pancakes. Chef Vinny thought the Southern Pecan Waffle sounded mightly good, and so did I. We agreed to split our plates when they arrived. 10 minutes later a large white plate with 4 crispy sausage links and 2 woebegotten looking eggs swimming in grease rattled down in front of me. It was looking very much like Chef Vinny had better luck ordering than I. His waffle covered the plate and was topped with a mountain of pecans and powdered sugar. Warm syrup and real whipped butter appeared, as did my buttermilk pancakes. We split our plates, I got half they waffle, he got 1 egg, 2 sausages and 1 1/2 pancakes.

Eggs are eggs, other than being cooked in too much fat, they were cooked over medium and tasted good. The sausages looked overdone but acutally weren't. They tasted great and the fact that they were crispy on the outside but still moist on the inside was a plus. But maybe I wasn't on the loosing end of the ordering stick after all. The waffle ended up looking far better than it tasted and the buttermilk pancakes were terrific.

The pancakes were light, fluffy and surprisingly tender, made even better by copious amounts of butter and warm syrup. The waffle was also light and tender, but it had a distinct weird aftertaste that equally copious amounts of butter and syrup could not abate. Neither one of us could definitively identify the offending flavor, but it did detract from the overall enjoyment of the waffle. Weird flavor aside, we did mange to worry it down without too much difficulty.

The Dutch Babies we saw going to other tables were enormous, our protions were smaller but more than adequate. Breakfast meats and hash browns are pretty much a la carte. Fresh squeezed juice is available. We ordered an OJ that never showed up.

Richard Walker's Pancake House has only been open a few weeks, I suspect they still have some opening kinks to get worked out. The space is small, the pace is fast and the place is packed. No question this is a high volume operation. I asked if they were always as busy as they were when we were there and was told business was "normal, it's usually like this". The food was good, but not good enough to keep me coming back, and definitely not good enough to wait an hour for a table. I'm not a morning person, I like my breakfast more leisurely, a lot less noisy and a lot less frenetic.

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