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Return to Golden King, SF

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Return to Golden King, SF

Melanie Wong | Sep 27, 2003 10:56 PM

A few weeks ago, I needed to pick up some hot soup on short notice to take to my brother, who was coming down with a cold. Golden King’s tastes the most like homemade, plus the staff know how to pack each component separately and securely for take-out, so it was a no-brainer to dash over to Chinatown.

For William, pho bo with slices of rare steak, and an order of pho ga (chicken rice noodle soup) for the next day. For me, the hu tieu (seafood rice noodle soup).

At his place, I tasted all three broths side by side. Unlike some places, they each had their own character and were excellent in their own subtle ways. The pho bo is described in my previous post below. When I asked William, the capsaicin junky, why he hadn’t added the fresh jalapeños, he said he it was so good unadulterated, he didn’t want to change the taste. The intense hu tieu seafood broth was sweet from umami and not sugar, however, the treated and frozen scallops and surimi had an off chemically flavor. The pho ga was my favorite of the stocks with both concentration and subtlety. For $1, I’d added an extra steamed lemongrass chicken leg to the order. The one piece I snitched was everything it should be – firm skin, silky textured toothsome flesh, red at the bone, and the unique rich flavor of Chinese-raised chickens.

Golden King is cash only. 2 hours validated parking in Portsmouth Square garage with $20 purchase.

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