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Restaurant Redux (Tapas Teatro and Cafe de Paris)


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Restaurant Redux (Tapas Teatro and Cafe de Paris)

Jon Parker | Oct 20, 2002 08:47 AM

I finally got the chance to eat at Tapas Teatro in Baltimore Friday night. The Chowhound concensus seemed to be that it was servicable but not spectacular. I have to agree with that assessment. It also seems a bit overpriced for tapas.

The best items we had were the least expensive: nicely roasted potatoes with cilantro sour cream and garlic bread topped with asagio and tomato were the highlights, at $3 and $5 respectively.

Katy got small kabob of tenderloin served with a nicely spicy salsa ($9) - the meat was good and nicely pink in the center, but the salsa, while delicious on its own, was too strong for the meat it accompanied. She also got a salmon salad that was unspectacular. I ordered a whole rainbow trout in a citrus marinade with red onions ($14) that sounded better in theory than it actually was. The marinade completely overpowered the fish - in fact, it completely overpowered the onions. The sad part was that the fish was very nicely grilled. This is a kitchen that understands cooking but not flavor.

Someone else said that they'd go back but wouldn't make plans to do so, and that about sums it up. They do make a really good sangria, but for tapas I prefer Jaleo.

Saturday we made a return visit to Cafe de Paris in Columbia, and as expected, it was wonderful. Erik Rokard's version of French comfort food is as good a meal as you can have in this area. last night I chose a special of filet mignon topped with a dab of goat cheese - it was as perfect a blending of flavors as Teatro's were obnoxious.

In my long review of the place I didn't mention the attached take-out deli, open M-F. I'm addicted to the panini with roasted red pepper, fresh mozzarella, pesto and tomato. It's $5.50 on its own, or $6 if you add a bag of Utz chips and an iced tea.

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