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Restaurant Louis by Stephane Pitre in the 9th: Really really special

John Talbott | Jun 28, 201610:10 AM

I try not to clutter up space here with new openings, etc., but despite the New York Times Magazine article that said that food central had shifted North to Copenhagen and South to Barcelona and Bilbao, Paris remains a lively spot for creative chefs to innovate, and after several meals at Louis in the 9th (23 rue de la Victoire) I've got to tout Stephane Pitre's food; he runs a tight ship in a typically small kitchen with two other guys and three in the salle, and sitting at the counter watching them work together today was worth a 150$ ticket to a Broadway show.

Louis in the 9th: Watching magic being made.

Backstory: For months I've been telling Colette that I was losing it; names at parties; dishes a few days ago; tennis match opponents years ago - and...
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