Restaurants & Bars 3

[PDX] Pizza Part 2: Hot Lips, Kustom, Oasis Cafe, A-Go-Go, Tributes

extramsg | Mar 27, 2006 01:32 PM

Continuing the survey of Portland pizza places that offer slices.

Hot Lips: High quality toppings shine on relatively subtle pizza. Personally, I like a more aggressive pie, but these are balanced and tasty, you just have to think about it a little more. Those who prefer subtle, clean flavors will appreciate Hot Lips more. Their crust has the breadiest flavor of the places in this survey, they just need to cook it more consistently at a high temperature to make it crackle.

Kustom: This is one of those pizza places that really has no reason for existing as far as I can tell. The national chains are probably better. The pizza is insipid all-around.

Oasis Cafe: This is what I remember as pizza from my youth, the stuff my mom and I made or the stuff I got when my soccer team would go out for pizza after a game. However, that doesn't mean it's good. It's actually the most truly mediocre pizza I've had. Nothing is offensive, but nothing is especially good either. The sauce tastes heavily of dried herbs, the toppings are a bit bland. The dough doesn't have that stretchy gluteny goodness, but it's far from Wonderbread either.

Pizza A-Go-Go: The only one in this survey I'd categorize as NY style pizza. They have the thinnest slices I've tried in town besides NY NY. However, they tend to be overly limp after re-heating. But the flavors are all nice. There's enough intensity and complexity in the sauce, crust, and toppings to make for an enjoyable slice.

Tributes: After several visits here, I still don't understand how it gets recommended. The white pies and Sicilian are terrible. But the standard tomato sauce, cheese, and toppings are darn bad as well. The crust is spongy and the toppings taste like they were on sale at the supermarket.

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