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Paper Dosa, Santa Fe: delicious real-deal Southern Indian

finlero | Apr 13, 201501:24 PM

Went to Paper Dosa over the weekend and it was every bit as deliciously good as the hype. They're still working out a few kinks with their processes (timing of courses seemed a little patchy, and although our order was perfect we saw some crossed plates at other tables), but the dishes coming out of the kitchen are firing on all cylinders and then some.

I wouldn't change a single element from any of the half dozen dishes I got to try. As excellent as everything was, the restaurant's eponymous dish was the standout. Their classic masala dosa was just ridiculously good, with perfect texture and flavor to the dosa itself and an outstanding savory potato filling. Both the coconut and tomato chutneys on the side were terrific as well, packed with bold, fresh flavor. Portions were thankfully smaller than in your average general-purpose Indian restaurant in the US, and I walked out of there without feeling like I needed to double my exercise regimen for a full week. Prices seemed nothing if not fair, with starters under 10 bucks and entrees in the $10 - $20 range. The wine list was meh, but their small, but decent craft beer selection seemed like a much better foil for this style of food. (And yes, you can get chai or a mango lassi as well.)

Located one building east of Maria's on Cordova, they've done a beautiful job with the space, with wood-top tables, a bar for solo dining, lots of light, and modern Indian-themed original artwork on the walls. It also looks like they may have access to a really nice courtyard for warm-weather seating, so here's hoping. Staff was friendly, incredibly hard working, and unflappable despite there being a line out the door within 30 minutes of opening for the night. Clientele looked to be almost entirely locals; I'll be curious if this changes over time as word gets out.

Paper Dosa is a phenomenal addition to the city and the state, not just filling a gap in the NM culinary scene, but doing it with some serious finesse. I'm very eager to get back to try more of the menu, it seems like this place can't miss.

www.paper-dosa.com

Paper Dosa,
Maria's New Mexican Kitchen
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