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Yet another Mozza review (long)


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Yet another Mozza review (long)

uclaben | Dec 11, 2006 04:44 AM

I know Mozza has been beaten to death already, but as a pretty new Hound I thought maybe I'd have a slightly different perspective. My girlfriend and I stopped by for an early dinner yesterday, waited just a few minutes for a two-top at around 5:00 PM. It took our waitress at least five minutes to acknowledge us, quite annoying. This set the tone for the rest of our meal there; the busboys were excellent and made sure we had everything we needed, but our waitress was unattentive and seemed generally uninterested. She was nice enough, but not really the kind of service we were expecting.

Ultimately we decided on the salt cod bruschetta to start, followed by margherita and funghi misti pizzas. I really liked the bruschetta - it featured a cream-like salt cod paste on top of your standard crostinis. At first bite it seemed a bit fishy, but after another taste I was used to it and it was perfect. The buttery cod was just salty enough, and played perfectly against the crunch of the thin, crispy crostini. My only complaint would be that there wasn't a whole lot of food - three bruschettas for $9 is not exactly a bargain (and it's not like salt cod is a luxury item). Nonetheless, good way to start a meal.

After another lengthy delay, with no word from our waitress, we received our pizzas. It's probably clear by now that the pies aren't very big - four small slices each, maybe seven or eight inches in diameter. They came piping hot, and "perforated" for easy cutting. The first thing I'd say is that the debate over whether these dishes are truly "pizza" is ridiculous. They are pizzas - there is nothing about them that suggests otherwise. They may not be authentic Italian pizzas, they're certainly not like the pizza you'd be served in New York, but they are pizzas. The crust was very good - crispy in the middle, expanding to a bit doughier towards the outside. I liked the blistered look and the flavor was excellent. I was somewhat less impressed with the rest of the pizzas. The margherita had a nice, interesting sauce, but there wasn't enough of it. Nor was there enough cheese for my taste; my overall impression was that the pizza was good but in no way memorable. I would say roughly the same thing about the funghi misti: nice, big chunks of mushrooms, excellent creamy sauce, but...something seemed missing. Considering there wasn't a lot of food and the price was fairly high, I was waiting for something special, and it never materialized. Maybe it's my fault for picking two of the more reserved pizzas on the menu, but I was hoping for more. Both pizzas were good, but I'd almost call them boring.

We were in a rush and skipped dessert, so I have no comment on that section of the menu. All things considered, I liked Mozza - the pizza was certainly above-average and the space was classy. But considering the prices and the hassle involved in getting a table during prime hours (so I hear), I'm not really in a hurry to return. The service was average at best...I'll try it again in a bit, but I'm not sure I see what all the fuss is about.

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