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Morimoto report

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Morimoto report

Dbird | Mar 8, 2006 12:47 AM

No pictures but tonight's omakase at Morimoto was a great experience.

Fine space and acoustics, well-informed, friendly/professional and well-dressed staff (I love Maria Cornejo!). Started with a slate of tuna tartare punctuated by several tiny accompaniments: wasabi, nori paste, avocado puree, sour cream, roasted rice pellets (sounds like hamster food but I don't mean it that way), osetra. I think there was an umeboshi plum. I had the ginger cocktail with Stone's which I haven't seen since I was in Ireland over twenty years ago so couldn't resist and friend had sparkling sake. Then switched on server's rec. to NZ sauvignon blanc with stone crab and kampachi and another sashimi--not tai but something like? Followed by a lobster salad which did not work for me. Potato brunoise cooked quite precisely but the 'beurre blanc' tasted like marshmallows to me and I couldn't quite reconcile.

Ma cha entr'actes was a disappointment. Darling presentation with tiny whisk and all but the server just gave a perfunctory stir (on second try, having dashed back to kitchen for hot water when precious pots proved dry on first attempt) and the resulting drink was tepid, weak, not frothy, and not otherwise recognizable as ma cha. A very nice little biscuit served alongside however.

Then my very favorite dish: foie gras chawan mushi. I want to repeat that: foie gras chawan mushi. There was a piece of fish also, a bit chewy and rich but not as oily as anago. Foie gras chawan mushi.

On to seared wagyu and a bit of perfectly cooked white fish that could have been a halibut or similar but I am forgetting, with daikon, which I nominate for the best supporting actor of 2006. Then sushi: chu toro, tai, kampachi, aji (I think it was aji) and either akagai or another clam which was not mirugai. The sushi was generous but the temperatures of fish to rice were not perfect. The wasabi was odd also. I can't believe it wouldn't have been fresh but it didn't particularly look or taste like it (my friend remarked that it 'bounced').

Somewhere in there was a bit of futomaki eye-candy with prosciutto wrap and daikon foam (zzzz) about which I might have more enthusiasm but for my limited exposure on account of the fact that like the proverbial meatball, half of it dashed off my plate and onto the floor.

There was a kitchen sink dessert: chocolate cheesecake brownie with banana sorbet and lychee pineapple compote & chocolate tuile. Pretty good actually though I am not a dessert eater and have a thing about mixing chocolate and fruit.

A mixup provided us with a large portion of tempura shrimp for a period during our meal and I was pleased to taste the two preparations along with the ranch dressing side, not least to the extent that the dish vindicated my belief at the outset and on which we acted that we would be as well served ordering omakase as we would be ill a la carte.

Would love to give Augie a run for his money at 8 omakases and counting but mine can take me only this far for now, and I consider it well spent, esp. foie gras chawan mushi.

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