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Long Overdue Normandy/Brittany/Paris Report

CMichaelis | May 31, 201503:32 PM

I'm embarrassed to say that we took this trip last September! There isn't a lot posted about this area of France, so thought it might be helpful for those planning trips this summer or fall.
My husband and I loved this region. If you like fish/seafood, this is a great area to visit. We spent a week in Normandy staying in an apartment in Port-en-Bessin. We had a wonderful view of the harbor and the changing of the tides.
Here is a list of the restaurants we visited while in Normandy:
Bistro d'a Cote (Port en Bessin)
Fleur de Sel (Port en Bessin) 2x
Manoir d'Acherie (Villedieu les Poeles)
La Gambetta (Honfleur)
Le Vauban (Port en Bessin)
La Rapiere (Bayeux)
L'Alchamie (Bayeux)

We had two dinners at the apartment overlooking the harbor. We collected smoked salmon, salad ingredients, cheeses, bread, wine, brittany butter. I was in heaven!

Bistro d'a Cote was a perfect dinner for the first night. Casual spot with a very friendly staff. We shared an escargot entree and both had mussels for a plat. We also shared a salad verte. With house wine and a shared sorbet dessert, our total was 83.40EU

Fleur De Sel was our favorite restaurant in Port en Bessin. It is situated right on the harbor. Casually upscale. Very popular. Need to book. I had Sole Meuniere and my husband had the House fish of the day (Monkfish). With two 1/2 bottles of wine, sparkling water, and salad verte to finish, the total was 95EU. Service is a bit perfunctory, but food was very good. Ask to sit downstairs or outside.

Le Vauban was the worst meal of the trip. The place looks a bit worn and the staff not friendly. Food a big disappointment. I wouldn't return. Can't find the receipt.

Manoir d'Acherie was in a town we wanted to visit. Villedieu le Poeles is known for their copperware and is also the home of Mauviel, which we have an entire set of. There is an outlet outside of town. We picked up lids for a few of our pans and a cute little copper covered butter keeper. Manoir d'Acherie is a family run inn on the outskirts of town. The restaurant has a huge fireplace that must be wonderful in the cooler months. They had an outside terrace that was full of locals. We each had the lunch prix fixe, which was a porc in apple cream sauce and a salad verte. No wine, as we were traveling on to Mont St. Michele. Can't locate receipt, but was very reasonable. We voted their salad the best of the trip.

La Gambetta has a limited menu, but really enjoyed our lunch. Staff was charming and the decor is very eclectic and cosy. It is located on a small side street up from the harbor.

La Rapiere was the best meal while in Normandy. I loved the atmosphere and the young staff could not have been more accommodating. Our entrees were tomato salad, risotto with gambas. My husband had sole and I think I had veal. With one flute of champagne and a bottle of wine, our total was 162.50EU. Highly recommend this place.

L'Alchamie was our last meal in Normandy. It is a small restaurant run by a husband/wife team. He cooks, she greets and serves. It is located next door to La Rapiere. We were able to snag a table outside, which I would recommend as the inside is SMALL and too claustrophobic for me. We had one prix fixe meal, salad verde, seared tuna, one beer, 1/2 bottle of wine, san pellegrino and sorbet for 88.60EU

On to a three day stay in Brittany. One night in Dinan and two night Trebeurden (Pink Granit Coast)
Restaurants in Brittany:
Briezh Cafe (Cancale)
La Lycorne (Dinan)
Manoir de Lan Kerellec (Trebeurden)

Briezh Cafe was one of the highlights for me of the trip. We arrived in Cancale early enough to find parking (highly recommend doing that-Saturdays are mobbed there). I have never been to the Briezh Cafe in Paris. I understand the upstairs restaurant is fabulous, but we just wanted crepes and were they spectacular crepes! We both had the buckwheat crepe with smoke salmon and creme fraiche. Pure heaven! We shared a crepe with salted caramel and both had Cidre. The total was 58EU. Totally worth it. We also had a table right on the boardwalk overlooking the harbor.

Highly recommend La Lycorne in Dinan. The town was jam packed due to a marathon that day. We ate early to avoid the crowds. Good thing we made reservations, they were turning people away after we got there. Loved the atmosphere of this restaurant. Juxtaposition of old and new. There is a huge fireplace (medieval building in the old part of town), but is decorated with these modern velvet chairs in purples, greens, pinks, etc.
It is casual with a bit of a trendy feel. They specialize in Mussels, but we each ordered a platter with smoked salmon, shrimp and roasted potatoes and other garnishments. Wonderful! The young staff was very ennergetic and fun. Highly recommend this place.

We spent two night at Manoir de Lan Kellerec with half board. As it was a Sunday and Monday, the menu was limited. We had two or three choices for entree and plat. It is a one star restaurant with the typical service, display and quality of ingredients. The dining room is beautiful and the view even better. We really enjoyed our two nights here. Half board included breakfast and dinner, not including drinks. Our rate for a superior room with view and half board was 400EU per night.

Three nights in Paris. We stayed in the rue Montorgueil area on rue Tiquetone.
Restaurants in Paris:
Pirouette (1st)
Le Chemise (11th)
La Saotico (2nd)
Little Breizh (6th)

Pirouette - we were with a couple that aren't big foodies, but they seemed to enjoy it. Total for two was 110EU, which included 2 flutes of champagne and wine their prix fixe.

Le Chemise - Parnassien recommended this restaurant. It was close to where are friends were staying. Surprisingly good. Loved the cozy atmosphere and the comfy seating. Food excellent as well. Staff very friendly. Total for 4 was 194EU, which included 2 flutes of champagne, a 55EU bottle of Bordeaux, two dorade, one Chateau Briand, one Supreme Volaille, two Sorbets and four entrees.

La Saotico was a revisit form our last trip. It wasn't as enjoyable this time. Maybe because we went at night VS lunch. I think this is a lunch spot. We had frois gras chaud, salad verde, tuna filet, veal, wine, sparkling water and no dessert. Total was 107.10EU

Little Breizh was in the neighborhood while we were out shopping. More of a family run feel. If you are in the neighborhood, would recommend. total for 2 was 30.30. we ordered the same buckwheat crepes with smoked salmon, salad verte and cidre.

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