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Manhattan Lunch

L'Impero RW lunch report

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L'Impero RW lunch report

jerusha | Jul 2, 2004 02:23 PM

Just got back from L'Impero,where I went for a last-minute squeeze-it-in RW experience.

I don't ordinarily go to places like this (expensive, staid, midtown), so figured now was a good time to try it out. The meal was very good! Very traditional, not very exciting, but very good. Obviously RW choices are not scene-stealers, probably anywhere.

My friend and I were pretty much the youngest people there, and we felt kind of underdressed, but no one was snotty or made us feel bad about it.

To start, I had a mushroom fricassee on a bed of truffle oil polenta (?). It was very delicious, creamy and smooth, mushrooms were smoky and flavorful, with shavings of parmigiano reggiano on top. Very simple, but very good.

My friend had a fresh pea soup with riesling gelee. It was light and fresh, presented in that way i love, where they pour it in at your seat so it stays hot. The gelee was odd, riesling hardly perceptible but it was chopped very finely and gave a nice texture. Funny to note that the version on the regular menu is also topped with crab.

We both had the skate for our main dishes, on top of a bed of braised celery, sugar snap peas, and fresh peas. Sometimes I forget how tasty cooked celery can be! The skate was perfectly done--crispy and well seasoned on the outside.

To finish we shared a three sorbet plate and sesame cannolis with a fresh fruit compote.

I left there full, but not stuffed, and definitely feeling like I had gotten my money's worth. No fireworks, obviously, and it might have hurt to have spent their usual prices, but also, the regular menu dishes might be more exciting and more worth it...I now agree with posters who recommend this as a good place to take your family. It's nice up there in Tudor City.

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