This is the eagerly-awaited opening by Earth and Ocean's chef John (no longer "Jonathon") Sundstrom. Their first night of dinner service was Friday.
The space is very minimalist and very cool--kind of a rough-hewn garage, with a few civilizing touches. Service was very enthusiastic and well-informed, if a bit less than efficient on opening night.
Menu is very long and interesting. Most dishes are fairly small, allowing diners to sample a variety without stuffing themselves, ala Harvest Vine. I believe there is a page of cheeses, one of starches/vegetables/appetizers, one of seafood, and one of meats. We had:
a few cheeses that were pretty good, though they didn't totally kick my ass
a savory bread pudding dish that was essentially french onion soup with very concentrated stock, and only about half as much of this stock as the bread would have absorbed; this dish was absolutely wonderful
a pork sausage, pumpernickle, and sour cherry dish--quite interesting
fancy mashed potatoes--unremarkable
beef short ribs--these were remarkably tasty, in a sweet, bacony reduction
hunks of lamb on a bed of cous cous: I'm not a fan of cous cous to begin with; the lamb was nice meat, well-spiced but slightly overcooked
Didn't try any desserts. They looked interesting, if a bit too complex for me (e.g., citrus sorbet with fresh fennel).
Really enjoyed myself. We'll be going back soon.
926 12th Avenue
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