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not-the-bad-Steve | Dec 13, 200301:24 PM     1

This is the eagerly-awaited opening by Earth and Ocean's chef John (no longer "Jonathon") Sundstrom. Their first night of dinner service was Friday.

The space is very minimalist and very cool--kind of a rough-hewn garage, with a few civilizing touches. Service was very enthusiastic and well-informed, if a bit less than efficient on opening night.

Menu is very long and interesting. Most dishes are fairly small, allowing diners to sample a variety without stuffing themselves, ala Harvest Vine. I believe there is a page of cheeses, one of starches/vegetables/appetizers, one of seafood, and one of meats. We had:

a few cheeses that were pretty good, though they didn't totally kick my ass

a savory bread pudding dish that was essentially french onion soup with very concentrated stock, and only about half as much of this stock as the bread would have absorbed; this dish was absolutely wonderful

a pork sausage, pumpernickle, and sour cherry dish--quite interesting

fancy mashed potatoes--unremarkable

beef short ribs--these were remarkably tasty, in a sweet, bacony reduction

hunks of lamb on a bed of cous cous: I'm not a fan of cous cous to begin with; the lamb was nice meat, well-spiced but slightly overcooked

Didn't try any desserts. They looked interesting, if a bit too complex for me (e.g., citrus sorbet with fresh fennel).

Really enjoyed myself. We'll be going back soon.

Lark
926 12th Avenue
323-5275
Tue-Sun: 5-10:30

Link: http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/food/14...

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