+
not-the-bad-Steve | Dec 13, 200301:24 PM     1

This is the eagerly-awaited opening by Earth and Ocean's chef John (no longer "Jonathon") Sundstrom. Their first night of dinner service was Friday.

The space is very minimalist and very cool--kind of a rough-hewn garage, with a few civilizing touches. Service was very enthusiastic and well-informed, if a bit less than efficient on opening night.

Menu is very long and interesting. Most dishes are fairly small, allowing diners to sample a variety without stuffing themselves, ala Harvest Vine. I believe there is a page of cheeses, one of starches/vegetables/appetizers, one of seafood, and one of meats. We had:

a few cheeses that were pretty good, though they didn't totally kick my ass

a savory bread pudding dish that was essentially french onion soup with very concentrated stock, and only about half as much of this stock as the bread would have absorbed; this dish was absolutely wonderful

a pork sausage, pumpernickle, and sour cherry dish--quite interesting

fancy mashed potatoes--unremarkable

beef short ribs--these were remarkably tasty, in a sweet, bacony reduction

hunks of lamb on a bed of cous cous: I'm not a fan of cous cous to begin with; the lamb was nice meat, well-spiced but slightly overcooked

Didn't try any desserts. They looked interesting, if a bit too complex for me (e.g., citrus sorbet with fresh fennel).

Really enjoyed myself. We'll be going back soon.

Lark
926 12th Avenue
323-5275
Tue-Sun: 5-10:30

Link: http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/food/14...

Want to stay up to date with this post? Sign Up Now ›

More from Chowhound

BBQ 101: How to Grill for Beginners
Guides

BBQ 101: How to Grill for Beginners

by Greg Stegeman | The weather is getting nicer, Memorial Day is on the horizon, and summer is right around the corner...

The Best Grills, BBQ Tools, and Grill Accessories
Guides

The Best Grills, BBQ Tools, and Grill Accessories

by Jen Wheeler | If you're in the market for a new grill, grill brush, or basically any other BBQ tool, grill accessory...

A Comprehensive Guide to Barbecue Sauce Across the Country
Guides

A Comprehensive Guide to Barbecue Sauce Across the Country

by Greg Stegeman | Barbecue sauce is a blanket term that doesn't necessarily do justice to all the regional styles of...

Battle of the BBQ: Where Can You Find the Best in the South?
Guides

Battle of the BBQ: Where Can You Find the Best in the South?

by Joey Skladany | As a self-proclaimed sauce connoisseur and fan of barbecue varieties specifically, I was more than...

See what's new!

View latest discussions ›

Get fresh food news delivered to your inbox

Sign up for our newsletter to receive the latest tips, tricks, recipes and more, sent twice a week.