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Restaurants & Bars 4

First Impressions: Allston Diner

Jenny Ondioline | Feb 1, 201212:59 PM

So as I was walking home from a light lunch at Lone Star Taco Bar, I discovered as I was walking down Cambridge Street that Allston Diner -- a project I'd assumed was completely abandoned -- was finally open. So I took one for the team and promptly walked in and had a second light lunch.

Or, more precisely, breakfast. I figure a place calling itself a diner needed a baseline reading, so I went with my traditional diner breakfast: two eggs over easy, home fries, sausage, toast.

The eggs were perfect: fully cooked whites, completely runny yolks. Absolutely dead-nuts on, as good as the ones I make myself, and I make damn good over easy eggs.

Sausage: links, fairly plump, decently browned, not dry, good flavor. I'm more of a patty man myself, but no complaints.

Toast: the menu claimed Texas toast as one of the options, and that's what I ordered, but unfortunately, this was just standard white bread toasted and buttered. For the record, what I want to see on my plate when I order Texas toast is a piece of white bread from a pullman loaf, cut about 1.5 inches thick, brushed with butter on both sides and then grilled. If that's not what you're serving, don't call it Texas toast.

Home fries: they're a good part of the way there, but they need to take it further. Thin slices of a waxy red potato -- they looked mandolined, not pre-processed -- and some shreds of onion, both of which are ideal. But they needed a ton more browning, a fact that I asked the waitress to pass on to the chef. If enough of us tell this place early on that we want good crispy griddled home fries, they'll have to start making them. OCCUPY HOME FRIES!

The room's got a great color scheme, and is maybe a little overdecorated and hipsterish, but...c'mon, it's Allston, you're gonna get overdecorated and hipsterish.

The breakfast options in the neighborhood both suck and blow, so I want desperately for this place to succeed.

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