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New Green Bo: don't write it off just yet


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New Green Bo: don't write it off just yet

Evan B. Druce | Aug 24, 2003 02:36 PM

I had my first meal at New Green Bo yesterday, and all I have to say is that if you think the place is in decline (as some Chowhounds would say) then I wonder how transcendent it must have been two years ago.

We were five, and shared a number of dishes:
Soup dumplings (steamed pork and crabmeat mini-buns): extremely tasty and rich.
Vegetable dumplings: the biggest ones I've ever seen, I don't like cabbage but those around the table who do said they were excellent.
Roast pork with preserved cabbage, shredded bean curd, and soybeans: I have tried variations of this dish at other restaurants and found it somewhat greasy, but NGB's version was neither greasy nor lacking in taste.
Crispy Duck: nothing short of amazing. Skin was crispy and fatty, though the duck was that rarest of breeds: not greasy.
Beef chow fun: Again, done to perfection. Noodles were fried slightly crispy around the edges...this is a style I hope to see replicated at other Chinese restaurants in the city.
Chicken and broccoli (not my choice, mind you...I would have gone for salt-and-pepper chicken) was in brown sauce; the sauce was light and not gloppy (although of course my point of comparison, Baumgart's Café in Ridgewood NJ, is not known for incredible Chinese cooking)
Salt-and-pepper squid reminded me quite a bit of NY Noodletown's version, although substantially less greasy, allowing us to appreciate the full flavor of the squid. Of course, it still couldn't measure up to the salt-and-pepper squid of the old Phoenix Garden Too in Ridgefield Park, NJ. But that was 12 years ago, and if anyone remembers this place and knows of a similar squid dish somewhere in Manhattan, please respond with your recommendation!

Even the service was outstanding: waitstaff smiled and paced the meal well, still a rarity in Chinatown.

So if you were beginning to think NGB was on the decline...I say think again. I'll be heading back there in a hearbeat.

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