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Akatonbo | Oct 20, 2005 08:56 AM

We ate the other night at Gioco, and liked it very much. For starters we had a wonderful octopus carpaccio: tender paper-thin slices of octopus in a light dressing, and a rabbit confit with fagiola beans. Both were excellent - the octopus was outstanding. For dinner we had pappardelle with a ragout of wild boar, also very good, and a strip steak smothered with onions and mushrooms, which was our only disappointment, as the onion-mushroom mix with its sauce just overwhelmed the steak (we had hoped for a more simple grilled slab of meat with mushrooms on the side). Not everything was as described on the menu - the octopus carpaccio, for instance, came with very thin slices of something crisp that we couldn't place, and the menu was no help. It turned out to be potato (must have been raw and marinated).

Service was good, drinks and wines were good, and the grappas, though pricey and limited to two, were both great (of the two, I liked the Moscato better). The pappardelle was made fresh in-house. Dessert was berries with a rather stingy dollop of zabilglione, but the berries were very fresh and delicious.

We've enjoyed the sister restaurants, Marche and Red Light, and were considering Opera (but just decided we weren't in the mood for Chinese), so, all in all, we'd go back, but be more careful when ordering a steak.

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