While we usually dismiss the state of Chinese food in Los Angeles Chinatown, the opening of a new restaurant in Chinatown is actually exciting news because it's such an infrequent occurrence. For example, the newly opened Friendly Seafood at the upstairs back end of what was called the Food Center is only the 5th restaurant at that location since that project opened up almost 35 years ago. Most recent occupant was Sum Wu Seafood, the cleverly disguised successor to Sam Woo Seafood which maintained that space for some 20 years. Of course it's also been over 20 years since we've seen any kind of innovation in Chinese food in L.A. Chinatown, so Friendly Seafood serves mostly pedestrian Cantonese food. However, there are a few glimmers of hope on the menu, including Hakka style fried squid, baked oyster with Malay mushroom, tofu with corn and crab meat, grilled chow fun with X/O sauce, pumpkin taro coconut juice hot pot and fried hot dog. Friendly Seafood is at 726 N. Hill St., #215.