Guided by voices, I found myself on East Pinole Valley Road. From the traffic light, I could see two 'cue joints, Ernie Good's and Quey's. Driven by some obscure self-destructive impulse, I felt I needed to go to Quey's. OPEN sign in the window, the door unlocked, welcoming smell of smoked meats and spicy sauces--"We're not open yet. Come on back at twelve." Yeh alright. So went to Ernie's and got the special, five chicken wings and fries. Five plump wings, all three joints, fried while-u-wait in a salty, spicy, but very light and unobtrusive dusting of flour. The meat well-done, very juicy and tasty. Fries extra-crisp, would have been too mealy otherwise. I looked at other folks' orders, and the fish looked good, six to eight pieces, small in area but fairly thick in section, and breaded in cornmeal. Also got a rib order to marinade in its sauce for 24 hours before eating (you can only do this with the firmer, chewier ribs like Ernie's or Flint's.)
The problem here is Quey's. Is it going to keep bugging me, the way places you can't get into do, eventually to yield undreamed-of BBQ treasure? Or, more likely, will the longed-for 'cue prove to be unexceptional in sauce, in meat, in portion, and I'll never go back? This hounding thing here can be kinda bittersweet.
Read Melanie's recent review of Ernie Good's at the link below.
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