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Restaurants & Bars 4

Dumpling House and Northern Chinese Noodles

Spoony Bard | Oct 23, 200304:05 PM

Armed with crisp new copies of both Carl Chu and Jonathan Gold, as well as a powerful noodle craving, I ventured last night to Dumpling House on Rosemead and Las Tunas in Temple City to try their Northern Chinese noodles. The stewed beef with hand-pulled noodles I ordered surprised me at first. The waitress suggested the chow mein noodles, but I suspected her motives. When the bowl arrived then, filled with what looked like Italian spaghetti, I was taken aback. Was this what I ordered? Had I incorrectly selected the wrong dish? This was very different from the noodles I've had at Mandarin Deli in Reseda and at a Taiwanese place in Boston. Respectfully, I tried to ask the owner if these were "hand-pulled noodles," showing him the page in Finding Chinese Food In LA. He informed me that the picture depicts Taiwanese style, while they serve Northern Chinese. So that explains Boston. What about Mandarin Deli?

Convinced I was mistaken, I dove into the fiery red bowl, and enjoyed what was on its own terms a spicy, beefy, delicious soup. Though the noodles were chewy and certainly not Barilla, they still seemed too thin and smooth to satisfy my particular craving. Going back into Counter-Intelligence, I read that the noodles taper at the ends, and have a rough texture to catch sauce, while from what I could tell what I was served were smooth and uniform from tip to tip.

My question is- are these the "correct" characteristics for Northern Chinese hand-pulled noodles? Also, is there anywhere in L.A. to get good knife-cut noodles, the other Northern style.

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