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Devin Tavern - Review (Long)


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Devin Tavern - Review (Long)

Phil E | Jul 8, 2006 03:37 PM

Had a great dinner at newly-opened Devin Tavern in Tribeca last night. First of all, we were very impressed with the level of service for only their second night in operation. All the drinks and dishes came out when they were supposed to and were what we ordered.

We started off with some of their cocktails, which like Pegu Club are made with house-made mixers. I had the Pepper Basil Caipirinha which was great, and my gf had a mix of tequila, lemoncello, lemon juice and soda, which was also good.

For apps, I had the excellent wellfleet oysters with lardons and a Hollandaise gratin. They were incredibly rich and creamy, with my only minor complaint being the sauce and lardons somewhat overpowered the oysters, but the brininess still came through. My gf had the corn souffle with lobster bisque, which was poured into the middle of the souffle. It was quite good, and very unique, I thought.

For an entree, I had the Veal Cordon Bleu, which came attached to the chop and was extremely moist and flavorful, with Serrano and aged Cheddar adding the key elements. My gf had the Lobster Club, which was good but really more something you should order for lunch than dinner (they say they will open for lunch "shortly").

We finished off the meal with an impossibly light rice pudding with candied pistachios that I will definitely order again. Total cost for two people including the cocktails and five glasses of wine was just under $200 before tip. While I think it's worth it for the quality of the food we got, we didn't order to most expensive dishes on the menu. For a place that bills itself as a tavern, the apps go up to $22 (crab legs) and the entrees can reach the mid-$40's. We were extremely happy with our meal, but someone coming in expecting something more casual (the environment is, the food isn't) might be surprised.

Overall, though, will definitely be going back.

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